Member Since: 05 Jun 2012
Location: Maryland
Posts: 1
Some additional notes -
It is worthwhile removing the lower tailgate's trim piece before reinstalling the carpet wall. Also, if you are handy working with bikes, break cables are an alternative cable replacement. I took it one step further by using my rigging (boat) swage and a barrel clamp.
17th Jul 2012 9:16 pm
scorteus
Member Since: 29 Jan 2010
Location: Cambridge
Posts: 8
Upper tailgate lock failure.. Again
Guys, sorry to be requesting info on this well trodden topic! Can you advise where I need to look with the following symptoms:
When press door latch actuator nothing happens (ie no noise at all) but if you hit the top of the black plastic assembly it is part of (L/R badge, lights for number plate etc), the door actuator clicks and the door opens. Shut the door and you're back to a f***ed door..
I am guessing it's a wiring problem in the door latch actuator box? If so, can anyone guide me to instructions as to how to strip down the upper tailgate on a 2006 model - all plastic - a single moulding from the glass to the underside rubber seal.
Cheers mate - all the info I needed to sort the switch assembly.
This video is perfect to show how to remove the upper tailgate inner trim. Thanks again, Jon
29th Jul 2012 11:38 am
floydstar
Member Since: 04 Jun 2011
Location: Bath
Posts: 92
Pumpkin wrote:
Hi Kev,
Hubby and I managed it when he actually hung on the trim panel in sheer frustration and thus gave me enough space to get my fingers in a position to get the cable out. I was really worried that he was going to break the panel, but it held. Can't your wife try? Maybe her hands are smaller. Having said all that, even if you break the trim panel it would still be cheaper to replace that as well than go to LR to have it done I think.
I've just dug out the wrapping of the part and the numbers are as follows: FQR 500220 and then underneath 68 Rm8 A0452692 G977A . But I think the part no. must be the first one. And another thing, when you get the part it's actually the lock of the lower tailgate with a cable attached to it, and NOT the lift actuator that you are replacing. Hubby was worried that we got the wrong part, but I was confident that the guys on here couldn't have it wrong and I figured out how to do it.
Good luck,
Pumpkin
Hi Pumpkin
Just managed to get inside mine and pull the cable after it failed today. The lift actuator on mine appears fine. It's the L shape end of the release cable that attaches to the actuator thats broken. Can you confirm if the part FQR 500220 is the lock of the lower tailgate with a cable attached to it? as thats the part I need.
Also does anyone have the part number for the sticky rubber gasket thing that you have to break through to get the actuator housing when the boot is stuck shut? Mines a mess
Fantastic thread! Thank you.
30th Apr 2013 9:31 pm
floydstar
Member Since: 04 Jun 2011
Location: Bath
Posts: 92
Thanks to this thread and the 'Tailgate Repair.doc' I manages to get my boot open from inside and am waiting for reply from dealer for the part. Thank you!
I managed to break the clip on the electrical connection that powers the actuator. It slides on still but wont clip in place. Is this an easy repair? I don't want to cut cables unless I absolutely have to.
Also - has anyone ever replaced the Support Cables for the tailgate? One of mine has been chewed up where the tailgate shuts and the cable sometimes wraps around the tailgate spigot anchor (?) (The bar that the tailgate latch catches on to remain shut). Now the cable is deformed so catches very easily when the tailgate is shutting.
I can't see how the side of the boot plastic trim comes away to allow me to get to the sprung pulley that the cable retracts and wraps around.
Does that make any sense to anyone?
1st May 2013 8:39 am
robo
Member Since: 30 Jul 2010
Location: solihull
Posts: 298
ok guys big thank you for all the info here, tailgate wouldnt open followed instructions got to cable pulled opened great. found the L shape piece on the end broken off found a post someone had said about using an allen key and and an electrical connector fitted up put make together shut tailgate opens perfect so thanks again for all help.btw the doctor says the stiches can come out soongone not forgotten 2 classics
gone forgotten 2 p38s
current d3 se 2006 td standard for now
29th Jun 2013 6:47 pm
Robbie
Member Since: 05 Feb 2006
Location: ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
Posts: 17932
robo wrote:
btw the doctor says the stiches can come out soon
...and of the gangrene?Land Rover - Turning Drivers into Mechanics Since 1948
Member Since: 30 Jul 2010
Location: solihull
Posts: 298
thats probably going to occur next week when the condensor rad comes out!!!!gone not forgotten 2 classics
gone forgotten 2 p38s
current d3 se 2006 td standard for now
29th Jun 2013 8:18 pm
yogi972
Member Since: 05 Jun 2011
Location: Kineton
Posts: 3372
Well I've been reading about this for long enough (I've had Ol YOG) for two years now) and a looming holiday prompted me to get me tools out and take the tailgate (lower) to bits to inspect the metal oojamaflip and install an emergency release cable..
I gets it all to bits to find gaffa tape over the foam cover and a crack in the carpeted trim, methinks the previous owner of YOG had a little problem before as its all shiney and new apart from a misting of waxoil
I attached some realllly strong garden twine (non rot) to the cable and fed it through the tailgate, through a drilled hole in the carpeted panel
All reassembled and I was suprised how little force is needed on the string to release the catch
One less thing to worry about....
Thanks all for your painful experiences and guide
10th Jul 2013 8:19 pm
luckyoli23
Member Since: 07 Oct 2013
Location: london
Posts: 1
Bill Wright wrote:
Thanks SJR
That number relates to the latch and cable. The part number I want is for the actuator that pulls on that cable. It's made by Stoenridge and has the FoMoCo logo stamped on it and some numbers, one of which looks like the part number (50000510 -B01)
Bill Wright
hi, i have the same problem and part number is the same as yours, did you manage to track that part down and where would i get one from?
oli
12th Oct 2013 5:37 pm
gavinwolfenden
Member Since: 09 Apr 2012
Location: Dereham
Posts: 4
I had the same issue with an 09 D3 today. Our dogs were trapped inside in a crate. Fortunately the crate folds up! Manage to remove the dogs, the crate and trim. Bicycle tyre levers worked knife handles not strong enough. In my instance the cable had detached from the solenoid without breaking. Looks like the release wire was bent through 90 degrees so off to te dealer for a new one tomorrow. Why oh why dont landrover fit a backup line to the lock mechanism just like other manufacturers do for fuel caps etc?
24th Jan 2014 7:41 pm
Heppleston
Member Since: 22 Oct 2011
Location: Uk
Posts: 14
Hi I hope you sorted the problem. Fixed mine with the brilliant info the guys on here posted.
25th Feb 2014 2:34 pm
Heppleston
Member Since: 22 Oct 2011
Location: Uk
Posts: 14
As various members have said, a lot of the problems with the tailgate stem from the cable-end breaking off. The actuator is inside the lower gate and is pretty tough and is less likely to break, mines 105K now, if you can still hear it when you press the release switch it very likely means its the cable end. I modified mine with a clip from the back of a clip picture frame... folded around the cable end to allow a couple of wire ties to grip. Strange but it works great.
25th Feb 2014 2:40 pm
Heppleston
Member Since: 22 Oct 2011
Location: Uk
Posts: 14
Couple more things to add while I remember - pulling the carpet off the panel is ok, but some early cars have a plastic cover on the actuator which makes getting your hand in and pushing the rubber guide off the steel frame of the actuator very difficult. This meant I had to also lever off the plastic ends of the carpet panel, which are welded on... they go around the cable stays which is a pain. I cut mine with a small saw.
It might pay to leave the cover off the actuator in case it happens again.. ( I forgot!!)
ALSO, don't forget to support the tailgate when you disconnect the stay cables, and wrap/knot the cables around to stop them disappearing into the car trim!
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and a crack in the carpeted trim, methinks the previous owner of YOG had a little problem before as its all shiney and new apart from a misting of waxoil
