denisb
Member Since: 27 Apr 2008
Location: Perth, Western Australia
Posts: 7
  
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Having waded through all of the excellent info on EPB issues in this forum, I've just about plucked up the courage to jack up the back wheels and have a go myself. 
My 2005 D3 joined the EPB screamers club a couple of weeks ago. It's only done it twice but SWMBO tells me it's a great attention grabber in the shopping centre carpark!! 
From what I've read here it seems that getting to it early is the way to go so that's the plan. I am thinking that I need to go as far as taking the rear discs off to clear out the inevitable gunk and then adjust the EPB. My dealer renewed the rear brake pads about 20000km ago, so I'm assuming I don't need to replace them at this stage.
If I don't put in new pads then I don't get the new caliper bolts that come with them, but I've noted that all of the instructions here say to discard the bolts and put in new ones.
Why is that? Is it possible to reuse the old bolts or is that unsafe? Should I put new pads in anyway?
Appreciate any advice that you experts may care to offer! 
And many thanks to those that have contributed to this EPB info. "I feel like I'm running out of time!"
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 3rd Nov 2010 9:47 am |
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Bodsy
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Member Since: 06 Nov 2006
Location: In the Clubhouse
Posts: 21361
 
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20,000km on a set of pads, Personaly I'd be prepared to have a set ready as if they happen to be more worn than not, then you may as well change them at the same time (very easy job to do).
Yes, get them Adjusted ASAP.
There may not be so much gunk in the EPB drum but best to take the disk off anyway to check the state of them.
You can use the old bolts but would recommend getting some thread loc (loc-tite or similar) Medium blue is fine. New bolts come with thread loc already on. They're only done to 35Nm so I don't think it would be the stress on them, but remember of course that they are getting hot & cold frequently, so it may just be a precaution. I've re-used the same bolts but I only generally re-use them once.
Don't forget plenty of copperslip to keep all the bits that should move, moving!
Make sure you jack up both back wheels otherwise trying to do just one when the other wheels are still on the ground could be an interesting challenge for you  Bodsys Brake Bible
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| 3rd Nov 2010 10:32 am |
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John C
Member Since: 28 Aug 2007
Location: East Yorkshire
Posts: 3292
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This is excellent - thanks very much for posting.
I got my first screamer last night (first ever EPB fault in about 70K).
I'm thinking I probably need to strip down and clean anyway, but it's snowing, cold and I'd want to allocate a decent amount of time to that.
I realise someone else posted on the previous page - but just to check please:
i. Pads and discs do not need to be removed for adjustment (just the wheels)?
ii. The EPB operates on both N/S and O/S rear, but not front? 
Many thanks,
John 2020 SDV6 D5 HSE, Carpathian Grey +
2022 Tesla Model Y LR... almost Carpathian Grey
Previously : 2005 TDV6 SE Auto, Cairns Blue (288K) - ours for 16 years
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| 25th Nov 2010 12:37 pm |
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Bodsy
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Member Since: 06 Nov 2006
Location: In the Clubhouse
Posts: 21361
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Pads and disks don't need to be removed if you are only adjusting, but if you have never had them replaced in 78k miles, how do you know how worn the shoes are without removing the disks?
Don't forget to lift both rear wheels in the air otherwise you might find it difficult to rotate them......
At that mileage, I would remove & check.
Yes, the EPB only operates on the rear wheels.
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| 25th Nov 2010 12:44 pm |
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denisb
Member Since: 27 Apr 2008
Location: Perth, Western Australia
Posts: 7
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I adjusted mine a couple of weeks ago and touch wood...so far no problems. Just need to take the wheels off and away you go. I raised both wheels at the same time as Bodsy suggests, but I didn't stick my head under!! It's an awesome sight to see the backend of a Disco up in the air!!!
Get hold of Bodsy's brake bible off this site...it's got everything you need. Only confusion I found was which way to turn the little adjusting wheel inside the drum when you finally locate it. My conclusion is you turn it towards the spring (which you'll see running alongside) to tighten up and obviously the other way when you back it off. And it's different direction depending which side you're working on. Hope I got that right.
Good luck. "I feel like I'm running out of time!"
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| 26th Nov 2010 3:15 am |
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SADISCOBOB
Member Since: 08 Oct 2010
Location: Alberton
Posts: 246
 
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Hi John C, did you say snowing and cold ? That brings back memories of fixing exhausts on a drivway with 2" snow on !!!! I gave all that up to concentrate on trips into Botswana Bush + a little sun  Life always good with a Landy
2006 LR DISCO 3 4.4 V8 HSE
DISCO 1 2.8 TDi
DISCO11 TD5
RR CLASSIC 1980 3.5 V8
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| 26th Nov 2010 12:22 pm |
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geirstein
Member Since: 25 Feb 2008
Location: Oppdal
Posts: 36
 
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Did my discs and pads today, guided by Bodsy's fantastic bible. Everything went smooth , thanks to all the usefull iformation in this work of art .
Best regards, Geir 
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| 18th Jan 2011 11:45 pm |
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discoverypete
Member Since: 27 Dec 2010
Location: West Lothian
Posts: 29
  
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Cleaned out and adjusted my brakes yesterday, everything was fine until I put the trailer on and stopped at the lights (on a hill). Yes you guessed it. I got a screamer.
When I adjusted the brakes I went for eight clicks, should I try six or ten?
Pete.javascript:emoticon(' ')
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| 1st Mar 2011 5:16 pm |
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Bodsy
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Member Since: 06 Nov 2006
Location: In the Clubhouse
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Have you still got plenty of thickness on the EPB shoes when you cleaned them out? (Did you actually take the disk off completely?). You could try 6 clicks instead. On a hill, the system will detect movement and re-apply to the highest torque setting. But if adjusted and shoes are al good, it should be fine with that. Bodsys Brake Bible
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| 1st Mar 2011 5:50 pm |
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discoverypete
Member Since: 27 Dec 2010
Location: West Lothian
Posts: 29
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Yes I took the disks off and removed plenty of muck.
The near side had been binding slightly and were smelly after a long run.
I would say there was about 1/8" of meat on the shoes at the thinnest point.
Thanks for your reply, I will try six clicks and hope for the best.
Pete.
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| 1st Mar 2011 6:46 pm |
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gedaso
Member Since: 10 Aug 2009
Location: Australia
Posts: 72
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What is the general concensus on how long it would take to replace the rear discs and pads ? The local stealer just charged me 4 hours labour...
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| 18th Mar 2011 11:52 am |
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Bodsy
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Member Since: 06 Nov 2006
Location: In the Clubhouse
Posts: 21361
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Was that including the rear EPB shoes as well or just disks/pads?
4 hours seems a lot. Not sure on the LR Book time for this. Bodsys Brake Bible
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| 18th Mar 2011 1:23 pm |
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gedaso
Member Since: 10 Aug 2009
Location: Australia
Posts: 72
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No EPB - just rotors & pads (but I presume they ought to have adjusted the EPB anyway ???)
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| 18th Mar 2011 1:26 pm |
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Bodsy
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Member Since: 06 Nov 2006
Location: In the Clubhouse
Posts: 21361
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They would have adjusted the EPB shoes and cleaned them out, but 4 hours is a lot.....
I dare say it would take me 4 hours, but it shouldn't take a proper LR mech 4 hours.....
Did they do any other work or just that? Bodsys Brake Bible
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BAS Remaps/ EGR Blank
Transmission Flush
Software updates/enabling
Clock/ SNOTM /3Flash / 4x4Info /BT Update /Service Reset/Error Codes / Gearbox Reset
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| 18th Mar 2011 1:41 pm |
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gedaso
Member Since: 10 Aug 2009
Location: Australia
Posts: 72
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Was done as part of a regular service - nothing else major in this area. I provided the brake parts, as I had intended to do it myself (following a certain Brake Bible) but got swamped with other little projects...
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| 18th Mar 2011 2:59 pm |
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