bbyer
Member Since: 25 Dec 2008
Location: Edmonton Alberta
Posts: 701
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R1 is standard relay but has nothing to do with windows. |
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Per the posts above, the R1 relay is a standard mini relay but unfortunately has nothing to do with the power windows. The relay can be easily replaced but even if replaced, it is unlikely that will solve your power window problem.
I have my R1 relay permanently removed and the contacts jumped so I have full time power to my accessory socket. Doing this did not affect the operation of the power windows.
You might just try replugging in the connector that sends the power to the rear windows. If that resolves the problem even for a few minutes, (sounds like it worked for a week or so), then I would suggest the problem is mechanical - that is wiring or pin related somewhere around the connector head. It could be the pin within the connector is not well connected to the conductor exiting the connector. This could be a factory production fault as it seems others are suffering the same problem.
You do not want to have to replace the CJB printed circuit board. If so, you need a dealer or a Faultmate as there is a memory chip on the PCB that has to be flashed to the VIN or something like that. This means the the PCB is VIN dependent, so it is not a case of finding a wrecked 3 and using a board from it. 2005 LR3 HSE 4.4L AJ-V8 petrol; Traxide Dual Battery; PIAA 2500K Yellow Ion H11 Fog Light bulbs; CounterAct LT-2 Capacitive Corrosion control; LLumar AIR80 Blue clear Infra Red blocking side window film; Liftgate manual release; Schrader Valve "air in" mod to OEM air suspension reservoir tank; Akebono ceramic pads; OEM solid vented discs; LR4 design hitch receiver; Wiggs D4 MOST bluetooth module; Clock on the Dash; 3 Flash signal light mod; Backup Camera; 2015/16 Nav Data update.
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22nd Dec 2013 6:11 pm |
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bbyer
Member Since: 25 Dec 2008
Location: Edmonton Alberta
Posts: 701
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link to a number of power window files |
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The link below is to an album in my gallery that has a number of power window related circuits.
Included are wiring diagrams.
http://www.disco3.co.uk/gallery/thumbnails.php?album=3813 2005 LR3 HSE 4.4L AJ-V8 petrol; Traxide Dual Battery; PIAA 2500K Yellow Ion H11 Fog Light bulbs; CounterAct LT-2 Capacitive Corrosion control; LLumar AIR80 Blue clear Infra Red blocking side window film; Liftgate manual release; Schrader Valve "air in" mod to OEM air suspension reservoir tank; Akebono ceramic pads; OEM solid vented discs; LR4 design hitch receiver; Wiggs D4 MOST bluetooth module; Clock on the Dash; 3 Flash signal light mod; Backup Camera; 2015/16 Nav Data update.
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23rd Dec 2013 1:48 am |
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Glenn of Belgium
Member Since: 29 Jul 2013
Location: Zeebrugge
Posts: 108
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Is it wise to disconnect the multi plugs and remove the wires one by one out of the original socket, then connect them to the conductors of the CJB?
Maybe also by welding them directly to the conductors/pins?
Then I don't have to worry about 'bad' connections, just removing the CJB would become difficult but why shoukd it be removed...
LR does'nt sell the connectors, only the pins with some wire that can be welded to the bad cable.
Now I have to find out wich entering wire on the plug to the CJB is for the rear windows...
The LR repair cables cost lots of money it seems. Otherwise i would replace them all.
Any ideas, pro's or contra's???
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12th Jan 2014 8:18 pm |
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