Member Since: 07 Jul 2008
Location: Karratha
Posts: 20
How do you change Brake fluid
I would like to change my brake fluid and don’t know were to start. Can anyone tell me if there is a thread anywhere here, I have looked and found nothing! What is the best way to flush and bleed the system? I live a long way from a “good†service workshop and need to address an intermittent soft braking issue mainly when towing, I am starting with a fluid change out...Help! I have become an expert at working on my D3 by necessity not want
2005 TDV6 SE
12th Apr 2010 8:19 am
mzplcg
Member Since: 23 Jun 2009
Location: Gone
Posts: 1087
I used one of the easy-bleed systems which forces clean fluid into the reservoir using tyre pressure. Then just go round the car opening the bleed screws one at a time until you see clean fluid come through.
Member Since: 13 Aug 2009
Location: Not London Anymore (or the US for that matter)
Posts: 1923
Because I'm changing my brake pads and discs, I want to change the fluid also and was going to make a similar post.
I'm used to working on old cars with normal brakes, but it's my understanding that on cars with ABS such as ours one cannot complete a full change of brake fluid without a computer or box of tricks that cycles the fluid through various channels in the ABS. Or is the amount of fluid that can't be changed pretty insignificant and so it doesn't matter?
As for changing the fluid on normal cars, a Gunson easibleed is good enough, just ensure you don't have too much pressure (<20PSI) behind it; a vacuum bleed system using air is better if you can get one. Start on the wheel furthest from the cylinder; if your fluid is pretty clear, consider using a different colour (it comes in blue or yellow, basically) so you can see when the old fluid is flushed and the new one comes through; just make sure it's the right spec. Brake fluid also makes a superb paint stripper, so wipe up any spills. Your new fluid should ideally be allowed to stand for about 24 hours before you use it in order to ensure that air bubbles in the oil have gone (not essential; probably matters less with newer cars for all I know). If your bleed nipples are corroded or look a little rough, you may want to use a penetrating oil on them (old brake fluid is great for this, and is even better when thinned with a little acetone; much better than WD40 and cheaper) for a few days before.PAGODA
12th Apr 2010 9:49 am
mzplcg
Member Since: 23 Jun 2009
Location: Gone
Posts: 1087
Very generic but it seems some cars do need the ABS turning on to allow old fluid to escape. Also a good tip about emptying the reservior with a turkey baster. Saves a bit of fluid by the look. I still can't find anything specific for the D3 though. Maybe someone more knowledgeable will be along shortly.
12th Apr 2010 11:13 am
mohnwalk
Member Since: 07 Oct 2013
Location: The wilderness
Posts: 205
Hi!
Im about to change the brake fluid on my D3, complete change (according to service manual). Do I need any diagnostic tool for this, or can I do it the "manual" way?
If so, how much fluid do I need, and what spec/make do you use?
Thanks!
28th Jan 2014 6:38 pm
DiscoDunc
Member Since: 08 May 2006
Location: Bristol
Posts: 16390
Brake System Pressure Bleeding (70.25.02)
WARNING: If any components upstream of the Hydraulic Control Unit (HCU), including the HCU itself are replaced, the brake system must be bled using the procedure on T4, to ensure that all the air is expelled from the new component(s).
NOTE :
The following procedure covers bleeding the complete system. Where only the primary or secondary brake circuits have been disturbed in isolation, it should only be necessary to bleed that circuit. Partial bleeding of the hydraulic system is only permissible if a brake tube or hose has been disconnected with only minimal loss of fluid.
1 .
WARNING: Do not work on or under a vehicle supported only by a jack. Always support the vehicle on safety stands.
Raise and support the vehicle.
2 . Check that all the brake line connections are tight and that there are no signs of leaks.
3 . Release the 3 clips and remove the cover.
4 .
WARNING: Do not allow dirt or foreign liquids to enter the reservoir. Use only new brake fluid of the correct specification from airtight containers. Do not mix brands of brake fluid as they may not be compatible.
CAUTION: Brake fluid will damage paint finished surfaces. If spilled, immediately remove the fluid and clean the area with water.
Fill the brake fluid reservoir to the MAX mark.
5 . Install the bleed tube to the brake caliper bleed screw and immerse the free end of the bleed tube in a bleed jar containing a small quantity of approved brake fluid.
6 . Starting at the brake caliper furthest away from the brake master cylinder, loosen the bleed screw by one-half turn.
7 .
CAUTION: The brake fluid reservoir must remain full with new, clean brake fluid at all times during bleeding.
Depress the brake pedal steadily through its full stroke and allow to return to the rest position. Repeat the procedure until a flow of clean, air-free fluid is being pumped into the bleed jar.
8 .
CAUTION: Make sure the bleed screw cap is installed after bleeding. This will prevent corrosion to the bleed screw.
With the brake pedal fully depressed, tighten the bleed screw to 10 Nm (7 lb.ft).
9 . Fill the brake fluid reservoir to the MAX mark.
10 .
WARNING: Braking efficiency may be seriously impaired if an incorrect bleed sequence is used.
Repeat the brake bleeding procedure for each brake caliper.
11 . Using T4, bleed the braking system.
12 . Apply the brakes and check for leaks.
13 . Install the cover.Duncan
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If I'd known I was going to be so thirsty this morning I'd have drunk more beer last night.
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28th Jan 2014 6:44 pm
John P
Member Since: 12 Aug 2011
Location: West Sussex
Posts: 1275
I followed this up until point 11, and am confused about the “Using T4, bleed the braking system†statement. Is this something extra that needs to be done?
Thanks
John
28th Jan 2014 7:02 pm
DiscoDunc
Member Since: 08 May 2006
Location: Bristol
Posts: 16390
I think that's only if you have replaced the HCUDuncan
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If I'd known I was going to be so thirsty this morning I'd have drunk more beer last night.
FFRR Autobiography 4.4 SDV8 MY17
D4 HSE MY13 SOLD
FFRR 3.6 Vogue TDV8 SOLD
D4 HSE MY10 SOLD
D4 SE TECH MY15 SOLD
D4 XS MY12 SOLD
D4 HSE MY10 SOLD
D3 HSE MY06 - Re-Cycled Worldwide
28th Jan 2014 7:05 pm
mohnwalk
Member Since: 07 Oct 2013
Location: The wilderness
Posts: 205
Thanks alot:)!
But this is standard procedure with the diagnostic tool. Is it possible to change the brake fluid without it? Thinking of bleed etc.
Im not going to replace the HCU, but Im thinking of a complete change of all the fluid.
28th Jan 2014 7:11 pm
SpiderBaby D3 Decade
Member Since: 21 Sep 2007
Location: Liverpool
Posts: 1399
I've changed mine a while back and, on the basis that I didn't disturb anything upstream (although I did change both rear calipers), I used the manual method - I don't have access to a T4.
I emptied the reservoir with a turkey baster and refilled with fresh fluid. Using a Gunson bleeder (not the pressurized type) I bled in the following sequence - NSR, OSR, NSF, OSF - i.e working from the caliper furthest from the resevoir.
Remember to keep the fluid topped up.
I've had no problems or brown trouser moments in the braking dept - including a '2 feet on the pedal' occasion when a van flipped and slid into my path.
But like all things - make your own choice....I see no ships........
28th Jan 2014 8:30 pm
floydstar
Member Since: 04 Jun 2011
Location: Bath
Posts: 92
My wife called and said she had no pressure in brake pedal. This is two weeks after I changed the discs and pads. I didn't touch the brake lines/banjo bolts/fluid. I had secured the caliper up out the way with zip ties whilst changing the discs. On inspection today fluid has leaked out of the banjo both that connects the drivers side front brake line to the caliper. It was loose! I've tightened it.
Pretty much all the fluid is gone from the reservoir. There seems to be two 'bays' in the reservoir, ones empty and ones almost empty, maybe a centimeter left.
Few questions please
1) If the reservoir has run dry does that mean T4 bleeding is required? i.e. is that deemed upstream of the HCU
2) I want to check it's not leaking from the banjo bolt now I've tightened it. I topped up the reservoir with some brake fluid and pumped the pedal to see if still leaking. I tried pumping the pedal with the ignition on and off but I cant get any pressure whatsoever in the pedal so cant confirm if tightening the banjo bolt has cured the problem or there's a split in the pipe somewhere.
Should I be getting some pressure without doing a bleed? (which I will do but want to confirm where exactly it was leaking from and if tightening the bolt has cured it)
3) Should I be able to just bleed the front calipers if indeed it was the front driver side loose bolt that was the issue? or do I need to all corners?
Thanks, Dan.
21st Oct 2016 2:39 pm
Pete K
Member Since: 15 Jan 2016
Location: GL
Posts: 10365
Bleed both fronts and see if you can get a firm pedal back for starters
21st Oct 2016 5:22 pm
aljo
Member Since: 20 May 2007
Location: west sussex
Posts: 804
Could this brake bleeding procedure be done with the IID BT toolLast night I lay in bed looking up at the stars in the sky and I thought to myself, where,s the f**king ceiling!!
21st Oct 2016 6:42 pm
Robbie
Member Since: 05 Feb 2006
Location: ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
Posts: 17932
Yes but it is only required if the ABS has air in it; but it does make things easier when changing the fluid - brrrp, corner done... brrrp, next corner done.
Land Rover - Turning Drivers into Mechanics Since 1948
I used the IID tool and it works well - but still needs someone on the brake peddle and some one on the bleed hose. Took two runs around to get all the air out of mine when I changed the master cylinder and servo - same thing with Bodsy's when we did that one a bit later.
I was one of (The first outside of GAP?) to use the feature and I think was in the process of being refined, which I've no doubt has been done now Mark.
2006, D3 SE Auto - gone but not forgotten.
2014 BMW 530d M Sport Tourer.
1977 Triumph Spitfire 1500
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