Member Since: 24 Jan 2010
Location: West kent
Posts: 8531
steve
don't forget call me when your ready to get started
3rd Feb 2014 8:35 pm
Beretta
Member Since: 11 Oct 2012
Location: Rochdale
Posts: 1180
Will do Geoff, will be up at first light! Cover already removed and bottom two bolts off. That's enough for today!
3rd Feb 2014 8:38 pm
geoff.
Member Since: 24 Jan 2010
Location: West kent
Posts: 8531
tart
3rd Feb 2014 8:39 pm
Beretta
Member Since: 11 Oct 2012
Location: Rochdale
Posts: 1180
Only coz new one hasn't arrived yet...
3rd Feb 2014 8:41 pm
geoff.
Member Since: 24 Jan 2010
Location: West kent
Posts: 8531
I'm trying to ring you
3rd Feb 2014 8:43 pm
Stooby2
Member Since: 24 Jan 2014
Location: Sarf Laandaan
Posts: 26
Bump to the top..
I'm going to service my air dryer as I'm getting the suspension fault intermittently at the moment. As it's been so humid recently, I'm guessing the dessicant has finally had it.
I take it a 2005 base model will have the Hitachi compressor, so this kit should be the correct one?
I'm aware of the microwave method, but I'd rather just replace the stuff.
And do I need any of the pipe repair bits in the eventuality that the pipes are seized into the compressor?
Thanks.
20th Sep 2014 12:10 pm
jc_uk
Member Since: 19 Apr 2007
Location: Cumbria
Posts: 314
Hi,
Sounds like same/similar fault on my compressor, with the fault light coming on.
Anyone in the North West offer this as a repair?
Thanks
JC
6th Nov 2014 6:47 pm
cardicowboy
Member Since: 22 Jan 2014
Location: Bromborough
Posts: 24
Replacement compressor won't start
Good afternoon,
Disco 3 2006 TdV6 HSE auto.
I have had a suspension fault on my car for a few days, yellow light, bong etc, but the car held its height while I sorted some parts and a plan.
It has since dropped to the stops.
I got another Hitachi compressor and a spares kit, serviced it (piston ring, dryer balls, etc) and tested it on a battery, then removed the old compressor and checked it out. The con-rod had snapped, and the bearing had disintegrated, also with evidence of desiccant balls in the manifold. Broken. Properly.
I fitted the replacement last night and tried to run it, but found the 60A jcase fuse blown. I have put a temporary link in for now. I swapped the relay R7 for relay R9 to test, and no joy.
I found a leak from the top of the dryer pot, refitted the old one. No more leak.
I have bridged the relay to run the compressor, and it does. I have run it for a minute at a time to try and fill the reservoir.
Still getting yellow light and bong!
Any ideas please?
15th Oct 2015 2:23 pm
Disco_Mikey
Member Since: 29 May 2007
Location: Dundee, Scotland
Posts: 20731
The compressor is ECU controlled, it only runs when the RLM wants it to run
By running the compressor by shorting the relay socket, you run the risk of damaging components and/or pipework
You need to get the compressor up and running when the car says so My D3 Build Thread
Member Since: 22 Jan 2014
Location: Bromborough
Posts: 24
Thanks for the reply,
That was my fear, hence running it in short bursts to try and con the system to think there was something in the reservoir. Obviously didn't work.
Good news though!!! Since posting I disconnected the battery for a few minutes, went for a short drive, and the lovely "brrrr..." noise kicked in, no bong! no yellow warning light.
Set it to off-road height, reached it no problem, set back to normal, and it even switched off!
So, don't know, don't understand, and after two days of sweating and swearing, don't care hehe
I am planning the AMK upgrade in the near future though, so please keep this thread open.
15th Oct 2015 3:44 pm
trainmanone
Member Since: 19 Dec 2014
Location: stockport
Posts: 366
hi peeps, how do the big pipes at back of comp come off??????
regards pete
15th Oct 2015 3:48 pm
cardicowboy
Member Since: 22 Jan 2014
Location: Bromborough
Posts: 24
They are essentially push-fit pneumatic fittings, but they are always very, very stiff.
You need to push the ring towards the body, then pull the pipe out. It is in about 20mm. It has a brass insert so you'll need to be careful not to damage it.
You may need to drown it over time in penetrating fluid over days, and clean between the body and ring so it can actually move back.
On my car, the previous owner had cut the pipes about 3 inches away from the compressor body and used in-line 8mm and 10mm push fittings to reconnect them. This solves the future issue with servicing, or repairs, but you'll obviously need the right length of pipe if replacing the compressor.
15th Oct 2015 6:32 pm
trainmanone
Member Since: 19 Dec 2014
Location: stockport
Posts: 366
thanks, have got it off now refurbished it with new piston ring and filter and silica, hope. it woks lol.
Hi
You can try a tool like this, top Bolt back in in 5 mn
Click image to enlarge
Just done it yesterday
15th Oct 2015 8:57 pm
cardicowboy
Member Since: 22 Jan 2014
Location: Bromborough
Posts: 24
I agree. I used to use the 3/8 drive ratchet and extension which popped out just above the motor housing, but using my 1/4" extension, wobble bar and screwdriver handle works much better.
Fit one of the lower bolts first just to help take the weight, then when the second lower bolt hole is over its hole, the top one should be over its hole.
I tend to use quite a bit of anti-seize to make removal easier next time. And there will be a next time.
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