Member Since: 03 Jul 2012
Location: Dublin
Posts: 10
Thats Fantastic Robbie, Thanks a million.
They nearly seem too low!! But im well on the good side if thats the case.
Think ill try another gauge tomorrow too, im still getting 28-30 psi (2bar) at idle!! not the 10psi (0.7 bar) as listed!!
ill do a few checks tomorrow and let you know wat i find.
Thanks again
Steve
3rd Sep 2012 8:46 pm
Diggerdoc
Member Since: 03 Jul 2012
Location: Dublin
Posts: 10
Hi all,
Apologies for the very slow reply!!
Just to update on the oil pressure readings i got, on both my own (after an oil pump replacement) and a friends disco.
At idle upon cold start pressure raises to just over 30 psi
as the temp rises the pressure drops to approx 26/28 psi and maintains this pressure at idle when disco is warm
As you put a rev on, the pressure raises along with the revs, the needle will shoot up and down in conjuction with the throttle response well up to 65/68 psi at 3500-4000rpm
The figures listed on topixs are the very minimum required from what i can understand, they are not listed as max/min but they really are extremely low!! with 10psi at idle and 27psi at 3500 rpm.
Thanks a mil for all the help
Steve
3rd Oct 2012 7:50 pm
Glenn of Belgium
Member Since: 29 Jul 2013
Location: Zeebrugge
Posts: 108
Just like to know where you can measure the oil pressure on the TDV6.
I would like to install a proper gauge in the car to.
Kind regards!
Glenn
Oh, the links with pictures for how to change the pump is not working
7th Oct 2014 1:29 pm
tareqyounis
Member Since: 31 Aug 2014
Location: corona , CA
Posts: 25
I replaced the oil seal without the tool, unfortunately it still leaked, I went ahead and purchased the tool and installed a new seal using the tool, sadly its still leaking, is it possible that there might be something wrong with the crankshaft surface? does the oil seal wear out the crankshaft surface over time?
What tool did you get, the proper tool or just the plastic sleeve tool, I have seen some cranks that have a mark on them from where the oil seal has been sitting, but never had one leak after fitting a new seal with the OEM tool.
There are 3 parts to the tool, one to slide the seal on to part A of the tool, that then enables you to fit the seal on to part B of the tool, Then part 3 of the tool is the part you use to knock the seal in, this has a recess so when the seal is knocked fully in it sets the seal to right amount in the casing.
It would help if he filled in his profile for what model he had.
Flack
12th Aug 2015 9:49 am
tareqyounis
Member Since: 31 Aug 2014
Location: corona , CA
Posts: 25
i have a 2006 discovery 3 TDV6 , 160,000 km, this information is updated in my profile but i have no clue why it doesn't show up in my posts, sorry.
i have the genuine LR tool (2 part sleeve), i don't have the tool that pushes the seal into place, i built my own (please see attached pics), i made sure the seal slides into the "new" oil pump housing about 1mm beyond the lip. now that i have replaced the oil seal twice and since its still leaking i have a bad feeling that the mark on the crank is whats causing the leak.
any help is appreciated.
thank youdiscovery 3 , 2006 , TDV6
12th Aug 2015 1:20 pm
garrycol
Member Since: 06 Dec 2010
Location: Canberra
Posts: 1115
You must be about the only person in the US driving a modern Landrover Diesel.
i have a 2006 discovery 3 TDV6 , 160,000 km, this information is updated in my profile...
It's in your signature, not your profile. Profile updates show the vehicle spec alongside your avatar.____
Gone: 10MY L320 RR Sport HSE, Ipanema Sand
Gone: 20MY Jaguar iPace HSE, Silicon Silver
Gone: 17MY RR Evoque SE Tech, Loire Blue
Gone: 08MY Discovery 3 XS, Stornoway Grey
Gone: 07MY FFRR TDV8 Vogue, Stornoway Grey
12th Aug 2015 3:01 pm
Allan_T
Member Since: 10 Sep 2012
Location: Northampton
Posts: 1034
tareqyounis wrote:
i have a 2006 discovery 3 TDV6 , 160,000 km, this information is updated in my profile but i have no clue why it doesn't show up in my posts, sorry.
i have the genuine LR tool (2 part sleeve), i don't have the tool that pushes the seal into place, i built my own (please see attached pics), i made sure the seal slides into the "new" oil pump housing about 1mm beyond the lip. now that i have replaced the oil seal twice and since its still leaking i have a bad feeling that the mark on the crank is whats causing the leak.
any help is appreciated.
thank you
Are you installing the seal dry? There's a PTFE sealing lip that the manufacturer specifies must be installed without grease or oil, the shaft surface must also be completely dry.GAP IID Pro Multi Vehicle Defender L316 2007-2015 - Discovery 3 - Discovery 4 - Discovery Sport L550 - Freelander 2 - Range Rover Evoque L538 - Range Rover L322 - Range Rover L405 - Range Rover Sport L320 - Range Rover Sport L494 Electrical Fault Diagnostics
12th Aug 2015 3:27 pm
Rich84
Member Since: 26 Jun 2013
Location: South Australia
Posts: 238
Used rubber grease installing my front main... no leaks 50K later.
Genuine seal used.2008 RRS TDV6 - Chawton White/Black/Lined Oak - 20's, h/k, sunroof - 350K KM.
2010 Audi A6 3.0T S-Line - Phamtom Black/exclusive 2-tone valcona 184K
2000 Audi A4 avant 1.8t Q Sport - Phantom Black/black 385K KM
1990 Nissan Pintara TRX - red - lots of mods - 439K KM
13th Aug 2015 5:00 am
KostasA
Member Since: 23 Aug 2015
Location: nairobi
Posts: 286
Hi to all,
four months back got a TDV6 model 2009. Millage was 42.000 miles. once went for service (a week after) was advised to change the timing belt as well, which i did. A week after cars stops, when pulled to the mechanic timing belt was broken plus the housing of pump oil. to my surprise i realised that the champion that changed the belt changed only the actual belt and nothing more. any way bought all set from the beginning plus new oil pump housing (with the reinforcement) from the UK.
once installed the oil light was on, when measured the indication was 10psi flat no matter rpm or engine temperature. as of now the whole engine has been dismantled and no blockage has been found. so car is at the mechanic shop 3 months now.
any advise will be extremely helpful. please keep in mind that i just moved to nairobi, and to find a good mechanic here is like winning the lottery.
can someone outline the correct procedure of replacing the oil pump, do they need to prime it first? things are so difficult here.
thanks in advance.
23rd Aug 2015 6:18 am
Rich84
Member Since: 26 Jun 2013
Location: South Australia
Posts: 238
Some recommend priming. I didn't prime mine as the LR workshop manual instructions didn't specifically call for it. Had no problems with low oil pressure on startup. The relief valve is built into the back of the pump - if it were not working properly you would not have control over oil pressure.
In your case though I would be very surprised if something didn't get broken when your original oil pump/timing belt failed. The valves are perpendicular to the pistons, so the rockers and cam caps usually take the brunt of the force in this situation. My best guess is that you have one or more damaged lifters and/or cam caps that is creating an open circuit in the oil supply system, hence not being able to get above 10psi.2008 RRS TDV6 - Chawton White/Black/Lined Oak - 20's, h/k, sunroof - 350K KM.
2010 Audi A6 3.0T S-Line - Phamtom Black/exclusive 2-tone valcona 184K
2000 Audi A4 avant 1.8t Q Sport - Phantom Black/black 385K KM
1990 Nissan Pintara TRX - red - lots of mods - 439K KM
23rd Aug 2015 11:58 pm
KostasA
Member Since: 23 Aug 2015
Location: nairobi
Posts: 286
Hi,
did check the whole upper part from camshaft, to valves, to rockers, to cam caps, everything and to my luck everything is ok. don't have a clue how to proceed. all parts are ok and not sure when pit them back if the pressure will be restored.
any ideas??
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