ODP38
Member Since: 08 Nov 2009
Location: Cheshire
Posts: 135
  
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Thanks Lurk and Bodsy 
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 13th Jul 2010 7:31 pm |
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beesle
Member Since: 17 Jun 2008
Location: widnes, cheshire
Posts: 117
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hi guys,
im goin to do my front pads 2mora but havent got a piston retraction tool. i know people have said you dont need one but is it possible someone could explain how to do it and what to use to retact the pistons
many thanx in advance
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| 4th Aug 2010 8:41 pm |
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lurk
Member Since: 01 Jun 2010
Location: Underneath my D3 usually
Posts: 130
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I used a 6" metal G clamp - and a socket that was handy. The trick is to stop one piston coming out as you close the other in the same calliper. (2 G clamps would be real easy  !)
Basically, clamp one piston and close it and chock the other so it can't come out as you tighten the clamp over the back of the piston and its 'face' - I also found that as I left the clamp on the 'retracted piston I could lever closed /retract the other piston with a spanner - crude but if you take it steady and don't force things it all goes back - all your trying to achieve is space for the new pads / disk. The pressure required isn't great and you can't go fast.
Take care to clean off the crap from the piston sides sit doesn't score the piston and create a leak and avoid damage to the little rubber boots.
good luck
Lurk Why do I have 2 big hands when my D3 maintenance requires small hands and at least three of them ?
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| 4th Aug 2010 8:50 pm |
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Bodsy
Site Sponsor
Member Since: 06 Nov 2006
Location: In the Clubhouse
Posts: 21361
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TBH, I leave the old pads in and then get a spanner to wedge between the old pads and just try to lever them straight as possible Bodsys Brake Bible
D4/D3 Remote FBH heat kits
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Transmission Flush
Software updates/enabling
Clock/ SNOTM /3Flash / 4x4Info /BT Update /Service Reset/Error Codes / Gearbox Reset
See It Here
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| 4th Aug 2010 9:55 pm |
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beesle
Member Since: 17 Jun 2008
Location: widnes, cheshire
Posts: 117
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ta lads,
i will have a go tomorroe and let u know how it went
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| 4th Aug 2010 11:18 pm |
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beesle
Member Since: 17 Jun 2008
Location: widnes, cheshire
Posts: 117
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hi guys,
just finished fitting brake pads
thing is the brake fluid level is much higher in the tank than it was before i started the job. it is about 5mm off the neck of the bottle. is this right??
if not what have i done wrong???
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| 5th Aug 2010 9:08 pm |
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MacLeod 313
Member Since: 18 Apr 2008
Location: away
Posts: 10723
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Nothing wrong, When the pads were originally fitted the fluid was at its correct level, and the level drops with pad wear and leakage (hope not the latter), when the new pads are fitted the level will rise again, thats why you should loosten the brake fluid cap and put plenty of rags around it, just incase its been refilled between pad changes.
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| 5th Aug 2010 9:17 pm |
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SpiderBaby
D3 Decade
Member Since: 21 Sep 2007
Location: Liverpool
Posts: 1399
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Just get something like a cheap (clean...) turkey baster and suck the excess fluid out. But don't drip anywhere - clean rags all around.
Instead of a piston retraction tool I use two 'G' clamps and a motorcycle tyre lever (from the good old days...).
Simple I see no ships........
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| 5th Aug 2010 9:22 pm |
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MacLeod 313
Member Since: 18 Apr 2008
Location: away
Posts: 10723
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I use a plumbers adjustable wrench
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| 5th Aug 2010 9:24 pm |
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DaveT
Member Since: 01 Aug 2005
Location: Cornwall
Posts: 2572
 
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The perfect retraction tool comes free with your D3 - its the winding handle extension for the jack Long succession of Disco's since 2001...
SIII Lightweight - neglected & rusting. Bulkhead, A panels, vent panel & outriggers now disintegrated - Next years project!
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| 5th Aug 2010 9:33 pm |
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Nasher
Member Since: 07 Mar 2009
Location: Clanfield, North of Pompey - UK
Posts: 2686
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Did my front brake pads and sensor this morning.
I purchased a set of Ferodo Premier pads which had the fitting kit included(Bolts, Spring plates) and the sensor from our local LR independant, West 4x4, for £50 plus a few pence.
Guy Salmon Portsmouth quoted me just shy of £100 by the way, and priced the fitting kit seperately.
Took an hour to do the whole lot, and as suggested the most fiddly bit was the sensor wiring, but it was easy to get to by just taking two of the plastic wheelarch protection panel pins out and pulling it back far enough to get my hand up behind. I spent quite a bit of time cleaning all the muck out as well.
The pistons on both sides just pushed back once in a tight grip with my fingers so no need for 'G' Clamps or levers.
I used my trolly jack to lift the car once I'd raised the suspension to off-road height, and experianced for the first time the car 'sucking' it's own wheel up in the air, which was cool.
I have seen however that the discs will need changing soon, so I'll be investigating my options including a V8 brake upgrade.
Nasher. Heaven doesn't want me, and hell is afraid I'll take over.
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| 25th Aug 2010 11:44 am |
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rdenyer
Member Since: 13 Nov 2010
Location: Sydney Australia
Posts: 11
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Thanks Bodsy for the Brake Bible - great help made the job really easy.
Just replaced on my D3 TDV6 76,000 Km (second set) - replaced the pads with Bendix 4WD EPR and found the the metal backing on the front pads was too thick for the senor to fit back in correctly.
Wondering if anyone else has seen this with non OEM pads ?
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| 28th Dec 2010 12:17 am |
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Roverlad
Member Since: 28 Mar 2008
Location: Virginia Beach, Virginia
Posts: 16
  
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jzk wrote:I am going to do mine, front and back, tomorrow. LR wanted $850 to do them. Atlantic British has the parts for $249, but I am getting them from Land Rover for $304.98 because they are in stock.
Are you putting new rotors on? My check pads light just came on with 73,222 miles on SE07. Dealer wants $1000 for whole job new everything.
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| 26th Jan 2011 8:36 pm |
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chrisbowler
Member Since: 30 Jan 2009
Location: UK WALES
Posts: 176
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Bear in mind that the wear sensor can be damaged from excessive heat and as such may still work when you change pads but may fail some time after - only a light on the dash I know but for the cost of a fresh wear sensor not that much extra work.
Chris Bowler Chris Bowler
D3 2005 EXPEDITION
D2 Challenge Vehicle
300 TDi Spare car
107" TD5 Comp Safari Motor
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| 26th Jan 2011 11:07 pm |
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gibbo007
Member Since: 30 Nov 2008
Location: Berkshire
Posts: 5
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Just used the Bodsy Bible v1.5 for rear pad replacement and EPB adjustment. Felt some much happier with the guide to refer to.
MOT advisory from the main dealer, quoted 180quid for rear pads and sensor swap out, Brakes International wanted 50 quid for pads and both types of sensor (round or oval plug) inc VAT and delivery, no brainer!!!
For others out there, my MY07 (56 plate) used the oval plug, so I have round plug to sell on...
A couple of other things to remember
1, remove the locking wheel nut key BEFORE you test drive. I have forgotten this twice now but luckily the other half has good eye sight and has spotted it in the gutter on both occasions (8 miles and 200 yards)
2, remove the chocks from front wheels BEFORE setting off for the test run. It makes a horrible noise and they get crushed!!!
Page 28, only need to perform bedding in procedure for disc or shoe change not disc or pad, I assume.
A blood sacrifice to the Spanner Gods is always beneficial, mine was a split thumb nail on step 1, jack up the car!!!
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| 29th Jan 2011 3:09 pm |
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