trynian
Member Since: 03 Sep 2009
Location: California
Posts: 66
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Fogga wrote:After some long waiting for my torque wrench, it finally arrived on tuesday I could start changing parts to get the e-diff fitted.
And today after 8 hrs in the garage, mostly on my back under the car, e-diff is now fitted and working just fine.
Thanks to Spooky for documenting his own upgrade, and for letting me nag on him in pm. And to BBS for the MSV-2 to enable it.
Good job! I remember a while back that you requested wiring with the parts. What did you end up getting? Did you have to scrounge for wiring?
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4th Sep 2010 1:55 am |
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Fogga
Member Since: 20 Jul 2009
Location: Tromsoe
Posts: 89
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trynian wrote:Fogga wrote:After some long waiting for my torque wrench, it finally arrived on tuesday I could start changing parts to get the e-diff fitted.
And today after 8 hrs in the garage, mostly on my back under the car, e-diff is now fitted and working just fine.
Thanks to Spooky for documenting his own upgrade, and for letting me nag on him in pm. And to BBS for the MSV-2 to enable it.
Good job! I remember a while back that you requested wiring with the parts. What did you end up getting? Did you have to scrounge for wiring?
Actually all the needed wiring except one power line, and the wires from the ecu down to the diff is in the car already. I just had to put in one 6mm2 wire from under the glove box back to the e-diff ecu. And since i have a LHD and Spooky a RHD i just had to make it a bit longer since the glove box isn't on the same side as the ecu in my car. Wake up power is located just 50cm from the ecu; the red wire located with the left rear door as in Spooky's writeup. High speed can bus i just cut near the ecu to loop it via the e-diff ecu.
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4th Sep 2010 2:11 am |
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trynian
Member Since: 03 Sep 2009
Location: California
Posts: 66
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Fogga wrote:Actually all the needed wiring except one power line, and the wires from the ecu down to the diff is in the car already. I just had to put in one 6mm2 wire from under the glove box back to the e-diff ecu. And since i have a LHD and Spooky a RHD i just had to make it a bit longer since the glove box isn't on the same side as the ecu in my car. Wake up power is located just 50cm from the ecu; the red wire located with the left rear door as in Spooky's writeup. High speed can bus i just cut near the ecu to loop it via the e-diff ecu.
Thanks, I still think one could get an ediff repair loom for the ECU to the diff. But no one at the LR dealer I go to seems to know what that means until they actually have to repair one. Did you order connectors from the dealer to run the wires and connect to the ECU?
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4th Sep 2010 2:18 am |
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Fogga
Member Since: 20 Jul 2009
Location: Tromsoe
Posts: 89
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trynian wrote:Thanks, I still think one could get an e-diff repair loom for the ECU to the diff. But no one at the LR dealer I go to seems to know what that means until they actually have to repair one. Did you order connectors from the dealer to run the wires and connect to the ECU?
The only repair part I got was 1 pin with a 10cm wire on to use to get connected into the socket for the main power for the ecu. The connection has 4 pins in and 2 out. And 1 of the 2 free was for the ecu, so i put the pin there and connected the cable i pulled through the car. Then I didn't have to cut anything to get main power connected The rest i got from the breaker. The wiring from the ecu to diff I got complete, and the 2 other connectors for the ecu (one for power and one for CAN bus) I also got from the breaker with 15-20cm wire on, so it was just for me to connect them where they should be.
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5th Sep 2010 10:59 am |
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ashtrans
Member Since: 24 Sep 2010
Location: uk
Posts: 1
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Hi,
sorry but I am not very familier with the D3's but would the electronics be OK if you were to fit an independant air locking type of diff in the front or rear ?
Dave
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24th Sep 2010 7:47 pm |
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Slimer
Site Moderator
Member Since: 06 Jan 2005
Location: Last Exit to Nowhere
Posts: 16295
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They probably wouldn't be too happy Dave, not without some adjustments at least, you thinking of making them? The End
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24th Sep 2010 10:30 pm |
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stapldm
Member Since: 11 Sep 2006
Location: Swine Town
Posts: 2330
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Bear in mind that although we talk of these diffs being "locking" 'cos that is a simple thing to understand, they are in fact electrically variable limited slip diffs.
Even when set to "maximum" there will still be a slight variance between wheel speeds if both wheels are slipping. This difference in speed is what tells the ECUs that the wheels are slipping. If they went at the same speed (like a traditional simple locked diff) then the computer would think that the wheels had traction and were moving at the same speed as the car was moving forwards.
Simply put, you could 'lock' the diffs, but all the automagical electrickery that makes these such amazing cars on evil terrain would be bypassed completely. I even suspect that a bong or two of protest may result Dr. Ian Malcolm:
"Yeah, but your scientists were so preoccupied with whether or not they could, they didn't stop to think if they should."
Transgenic tomato anyone?
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24th Sep 2010 10:57 pm |
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DG
Site Moderator
Member Since: 12 Dec 2005
Location: The Gaff
Posts: 50934
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WTF do you need a rear locking diff for ? Sounds like a tenuous link back to dragging knuckles to me
I've never not got anywhere that one with has
21 year LR veteran > D2 GS 2003 > D3 S 2006 > D3 HSE 2009 > D4 HSE 2013 > D4 HSE 2015 > D5 HSE 2018 > DS HSE R-Dynamic P300e 2021
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24th Sep 2010 11:03 pm |
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Slimer
Site Moderator
Member Since: 06 Jan 2005
Location: Last Exit to Nowhere
Posts: 16295
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Never owned a D3 without one myself
Might get away with adding a 'normal' locker onto a D3 coiler without TR but even then there's TC to consider The End
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24th Sep 2010 11:08 pm |
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DG
Site Moderator
Member Since: 12 Dec 2005
Location: The Gaff
Posts: 50934
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Slimer wrote:
Never owned a D3 without one myself
Pah ! Pffft !! 21 year LR veteran > D2 GS 2003 > D3 S 2006 > D3 HSE 2009 > D4 HSE 2013 > D4 HSE 2015 > D5 HSE 2018 > DS HSE R-Dynamic P300e 2021
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24th Sep 2010 11:27 pm |
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bundubasha
Member Since: 02 Nov 2010
Location: Nairobi
Posts: 62
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I don't know if I am being a complete cretin but I can't find the link to Spooky's rear diff upgrade...
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4th Nov 2010 8:46 am |
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Fogga
Member Since: 20 Jul 2009
Location: Tromsoe
Posts: 89
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bundubasha wrote:I don't know if I am being a complete cretin but I can't find the link to Spooky's rear diff upgrade...
Here is one of them.
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10th Nov 2010 2:17 pm |
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bundubasha
Member Since: 02 Nov 2010
Location: Nairobi
Posts: 62
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cool, thanks
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10th Nov 2010 2:33 pm |
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trynian
Member Since: 03 Sep 2009
Location: California
Posts: 66
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Well, after the long parts search, I am happy to say my locking diff retrofit is almost done.
Over the last 8 months I started to assemble the wiring parts needed. First off I found a complete inside loom with the locking diff and was able to pick it up for a reasonable price. this allowed me to extract the wiring sections I needed and install those sections in mine.
Then I had to search out for the chasis loom sections needed that connect the locking motor to the diff control module. I contemplated making it myself as I was able to source 2 out of the 3 connectors needed and just as I found the possible third connector source I ran accross a fellow that had a new chasis loom that had been sitting on his parts shelf for a couple years and he sold it to me for a bargan.
Recently my regular diff went out and needed to be replaced. My extended warranty would pay for it to be replaced and I decided to pay the difference and ordered a complete rebuilt locking diff and it was installed by my indy shop.
The last piece I need which will be here in about 5 days is the control module. Everything else is ready and wired up so I should just be able to plug that in and activate the function with my faultmate. If all goes right everything should function as planned.
I will keep you posted.
Thanks Spooky and Fogga for the inspiration and notes.
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13th Aug 2011 12:23 am |
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