Member Since: 11 Dec 2012
Location: Glasgow
Posts: 97
Thanks All,
I will review the video tonight Robbie and I'll defo be doing some further tests at the pump before I finally condemn it. I understand your reasoning behind using the Amp Clamp and I did worry about this but reasoned that as the car was running, the pump must have been running also and not siezed or pulling a particularly high current - was a bit of a risk though If I was using the clamp style, I assume you would just run a jumper wire in place of the fuse and clamp around that? I couldn't quite see from your pics?
Mikey - I was hoping to do just the repair pump but I presume you are talking from experience and that the aftermarket ones are no good. Presumably, if I can source a genuine Walbro GSS 503 for reasonable money, then this would be ok.
Also I have seen the folowing one which looks like reasonable money for an Genunie LR part;
Can anyone confirm the Part No. (LRO 42717), is correct for my car MY06 VIN: 6A413XXX ? I'm not sure if the D3 one fits the D4 also, as it has in the listing?
Freebob - Think you need to go for a drive with the missus to experience this. Defo sounds like clutch issue to me also
5th Mar 2015 2:44 pm
Disco_Mikey
Member Since: 29 May 2007
Location: Dundee, Scotland
Posts: 20732
That's a D3 pump for 10MY tank
From memory, I beilieve you need a WGS500110. Around £300 or so My D3 Build Thread
Member Since: 05 Feb 2006
Location: ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
Posts: 17932
Jakeboy wrote:
I will review the video tonight Robbie and I'll defo be doing some further tests at the pump before I finally condemn it. I understand your reasoning behind using the Amp Clamp and I did worry about this but reasoned that as the car was running, the pump must have been running also and not siezed or pulling a particularly high current - was a bit of a risk though If I was using the clamp style, I assume you would just run a jumper wire in place of the fuse and clamp around that? I couldn't quite see from your pics?
Jumper wires is one option and the book method is to release the BJB and clamp from beneath the fuse, so that is another. You can also use the test points on the back of the fuse and measure the mV across them and use Ohm's Law to deduce the current.
I use one of these fuse buddy style DMM adaptors and link the 2 cables with a female/female banana connector, so have the option of using it with a regular DMM or a clamp:
Land Rover - Turning Drivers into Mechanics Since 1948
Member Since: 11 Dec 2012
Location: Glasgow
Posts: 97
Disco_Mikey wrote:
That's a D3 pump for 10MY tank
From memory, I beilieve you need a WGS500110. Around £300 or so
Just had a thought ( dangerous I know ), but I wonder if the pump in the one listed for the MY 10, is the same as the one in the earlier version? Given the prices, it would still be the cheapest option to get an OEM pump, if I could simply swap them over?
I've done a search and can't seem to find a diagram or parts list
5th Mar 2015 8:50 pm
Disco_Mikey
Member Since: 29 May 2007
Location: Dundee, Scotland
Posts: 20732
Member Since: 11 Dec 2012
Location: Glasgow
Posts: 97
I should have guessed I would not be the first to have thought about it Cheers again
5th Mar 2015 9:03 pm
cyberboblouth
Member Since: 17 Mar 2015
Location: Perth
Posts: 12
Hi Jakeboy, please keep us updated. I am having what appears to be the exact same issue, I got just over 4 amps on the test.
17th Mar 2015 1:59 am
mark.hofert
Member Since: 03 Jul 2014
Location: waltham abbey
Posts: 34
Guys, this post has possibly saved me a lot of heart ache.
I did the test and i am getting 4.21Amps on mine.
If this works, hopefully all my problems are cured.
Only question i have is how do i know if i have a fuel-fired aux heater?
20th Mar 2015 3:51 pm
cyberboblouth
Member Since: 17 Mar 2015
Location: Perth
Posts: 12
I just spoke with the garage and they couldn't comment further if the low pressure pump would give my symptoms without it being there in the garage.
I am just getting quotes to change the high pressure pump, using the later design D4 pump and new belt + tensioner. All in is approx. $3000 AUD
I hope they conclude it's the low pressure pump when checking but after lots of reading it's most likely the HPFP
23rd Mar 2015 4:12 am
mark.hofert
Member Since: 03 Jul 2014
Location: waltham abbey
Posts: 34
Cyber, just as an update. I did the test and I also got 4.21amps. Ordered the full unit and spent the day fitting the new one. Driven it for 2 days now and this seems to of fixed my problems.
23rd Mar 2015 8:52 am
cyberboblouth
Member Since: 17 Mar 2015
Location: Perth
Posts: 12
Many thanks for the update, making me feel easier about my impending costs.
Did you have the same vehicle symptoms as the OP? Did you do another current test after fitting? And lastly, any links for the kit?
Thanks, again,
Bob.
23rd Mar 2015 10:03 am
mark.hofert
Member Since: 03 Jul 2014
Location: waltham abbey
Posts: 34
Bob,almost identical. Just that mine would cut out completely.
I didn't recheck the rest, took it for a long drive and no more symptoms.
Got the part from http://www.brit-car.co.uk/
spoke to Craig wood and he went out his way to get the part delivered the next day...
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If I was using the clamp style, I assume you would just run a jumper wire in place of the fuse and clamp around that? I couldn't quite see from your pics?
Better water the money tree again 
( dangerous I know 
), but I wonder if the pump in the one listed for the MY 10, is the same as the one in the earlier version? Given the prices, it would still be the cheapest option to get an OEM pump, if I could simply swap them over?
