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Front Brake Pads - changing
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hiflyer
 


Member Since: 06 May 2005
Location: Co. Mayo
Posts: 5


97k. Still original pads, many thanks for all the info.
  
Post #22872127th Nov 2007 9:55 pm
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MrH
 


Member Since: 08 Aug 2007
Location: lost in the forest
Posts: 7754

United Kingdom 

hiflyer wrote:
97k. Still original pads, many thanks for all the info.
Shocked

Do you ever stop or slow down. I ws pleasedwith getting 28k miles and 65% used on the fronts, 50% used on the backs (according to the stealers), the that's a serious distance on original pads, even beats Simon. Bow down

I suppose it does make a difference on how often you drive off-road and get the brakes full of dirt and mud. Good posting - thanks Gareth, I'll be doing mine in the next few months Thumbs Up
 LRs are a fond memory, apart from the maintenance.  
Post #2420258th Jan 2008 3:52 pm
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DiscoStu
 


Member Since: 09 Apr 2006
Location: London
Posts: 11412

England 

18k on mine Confused Wonder what caused that? Shocked
























Whistle
 Disco 5 HSE Lux
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=peyiqaJrmMU 
 
Post #2422318th Jan 2008 10:06 pm
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Sam131fr
 


Member Since: 22 Aug 2005
Location: Chaintreaux 77
Posts: 51

France 2005 Discovery 3 TDV6 HSE Auto Bonatti GreyDiscovery 3

Hi !

Do someone know where is the brake fluid tank located ? I ask in order to know where to verify the level...

Cheers
Sam
 2005 Discovery 3 TDV6 HSE Auto - 7 seat - Bonati Grey - Alpaca leather  
Post #26178120th Feb 2008 11:19 am
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Slimer
Site Moderator 


Member Since: 06 Jan 2005
Location: Last Exit to Nowhere
Posts: 16295

United Kingdom 

It's in the second battery box
 The End  
Post #26178520th Feb 2008 11:29 am
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simonsi
 


Member Since: 14 Oct 2007
Location: Auckland
Posts: 1264

New Zealand 

hiflyer wrote:
97k. Still original pads, many thanks for all the info.


You SURE someone didn't change them without you noticing - at a service maybe, seems a huge mileage.

Hope your gearbox is OK Shocked

And your front bumper Shocked Shocked

Very Happy
 Cheers

Simon 
 
Post #26179320th Feb 2008 11:47 am
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Rob Bruce
 


Member Since: 18 Jun 2006
Location: Canberra
Posts: 687

Australia 2005 Discovery 3 TDV6 SE Auto Maya GoldDiscovery 3

60,000 km lots of dirt, sand some mud [ drought ] and pads have plenty of meat left Smile
It helps not to alternate brake and accelerator flat to the floor Whistle

Rob
  
Post #26179720th Feb 2008 11:58 am
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IanD
 


Member Since: 11 Mar 2006
Location: (Too) close to Paris
Posts: 516

France 2006 Discovery 3 TDV6 HSE Manual Chawton WhiteDiscovery 3

I just replaced the rear pads last night, and found the instructions spot on Thumbs Up

A couple of comments:

1) I found a 13mm socket to be easier than a spanner for the caliper bolts

2) I also used the G-clamp method of getting the piston back in, but rather than messing around cutting pieces of wood, just used the spanner across the piston to stop the clamp going up inside it.

TBH the most difficult part of the whole exercise was jacking the D3 up (not having an air jack Embarassed ... yet 8) ), except...


How the hell do you get the sensor cable to plug back in to where it belongs? I got the old one off without a problem, and routing the new one was not even too much trouble, since there is no liner at the rear. However, the cable plugs in behind the air suspension, which makes it very difficult to see what's going on. I presume it's simple when they're built, since the body's probably not on when the cable is fitted, but taking it off to change it later seems a bit extreme!

Anyway, I found that you can get the socket (the part "on the car") to a visible position, but I still can't get the plug (on the end of the new cable) to click into position correctly. Can anyone tell me what I'm doing wrong?
  
Post #26232321st Feb 2008 5:25 pm
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IanD
 


Member Since: 11 Mar 2006
Location: (Too) close to Paris
Posts: 516

France 2006 Discovery 3 TDV6 HSE Manual Chawton WhiteDiscovery 3

And another thing...

lr1 wrote:
I do have replacement sensor cables and am going to cut them, and put a suitable connector closer to the brake to make changing easier, something LR should have done (eg. like Porsche).


Has anyone done this?

From the hassle involved in getting at the connectors, it looks like it could be a good idea (as long as a dealer doesn't go and rip the whole lot out during a service). What has/could be recommended as a connector?

Also, given that both times our brake pad warning light has come on it the pad without the sensor has been the most worn, has anyone thought of fitting another sensor to the other side and just cabling across the existing wiring on the other side? Why they only fitted one per "axle" is beyond me - cost cutting I suppose.
  
Post #26236721st Feb 2008 7:11 pm
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ianv
 


Member Since: 20 Dec 2007
Location: Bungendore, New South Wales
Posts: 338

Australia 2015 Discovery 4 3.0 TDV6 Base 7 Seat Auto Fuji WhiteDiscovery 4

I'll go with the long mileage guys, 60K and 65%worn, slightly more wear up front.

Lots of long highway work, daily commute 40K each way with light traffic. I had to replace a rear wear sensor after getting a stick between the wheel and caliper that broke the wire. Downside of 17" wheels is the small clearance from Calipers.
 TDV6  
Post #2676604th Mar 2008 12:26 pm
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Sam131fr
 


Member Since: 22 Aug 2005
Location: Chaintreaux 77
Posts: 51

France 2005 Discovery 3 TDV6 HSE Auto Bonatti GreyDiscovery 3

Hi guys !

i have another stupid question...what does used sensor looks like after the warning light came on on the board ?

I ask because i just changed my brake pads (because of the light), and saw no pb on the sensors...

Cheers
Sam
 2005 Discovery 3 TDV6 HSE Auto - 7 seat - Bonati Grey - Alpaca leather  
Post #27212113th Mar 2008 4:54 pm
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Robert Page
 


Member Since: 02 Jan 2008
Location: Avalon Beach, FL, USA
Posts: 44

United States 2005 LR3 4.4 V8 Base 5 Seat Auto Java BlackLR3

I have located good quality aftermarket pads, but have a question. Is the "wear sensor" integrated into the pads or is it just attached to it? I have 2 part numbers, one with the sensor, one without. After reading all of this thread, I believe this is simply the sensor wire/harness included with the pads.

Wagner Thermoquiet - Front Premium Semi-Metallic MX1099 $48 USD
Rear Premium Semi Metallic MX1098 $42 USD

No sensor Wire indicated with these. I do not have a warning light yet, but my rear pads are about 6mm so I am going to replace them and want to be sure I am buying the correct parts.
 '05 LR3 (Disco III) Trail, 5 Passenger V8 petrol, LHD, ARB Bull Bar, Warn XD9000 Winch
'93 Range Rover, 3.5" Lift, Custom Front Bumper, Warn M8000 Winch
'76 IHC Scout II, 345 cid V8, TF27 Auto
'07 GMC Sierra 2500 HD Duramax, Rover Transporter 
 
Post #27627022nd Mar 2008 1:27 pm
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jeff
 


Member Since: 18 Jun 2005
Location: Cornwall
Posts: 393

2005 Discovery 3 TDV6 SE Manual Rimini RedDiscovery 3

Robert Page wrote:
I have located good quality aftermarket pads, but have a question. Is the "wear sensor" integrated into the pads or is it just attached to it? I have 2 part numbers, one with the sensor, one without. After reading all of this thread, I believe this is simply the sensor wire/harness included with the pads.

Wagner Thermoquiet - Front Premium Semi-Metallic MX1099 $48 USD
Rear Premium Semi Metallic MX1098 $42 USD

No sensor Wire indicated with these. I do not have a warning light yet, but my rear pads are about 6mm so I am going to replace them and want to be sure I am buying the correct parts.


Hi Robert, the wear sensor is seperate to the pads and not built in, it fits into its own holder and is retained by a small spring. If you get a warning light you'll need to replace the sensor but if you replace the pads before it activates the sensors will be fine as they are.
 D3 TDV6SE
Defender 110 V8 lpg

www.carlyonbay.net
www.thepavillioncarlyonbay.co.uk 
 
Post #27627722nd Mar 2008 2:20 pm
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jeff
 


Member Since: 18 Jun 2005
Location: Cornwall
Posts: 393

2005 Discovery 3 TDV6 SE Manual Rimini RedDiscovery 3

IanD wrote:
I just replaced the rear pads last night, and found the instructions spot on Thumbs Up

A couple of comments:

1) I found a 13mm socket to be easier than a spanner for the caliper bolts

2) I also used the G-clamp method of getting the piston back in, but rather than messing around cutting pieces of wood, just used the spanner across the piston to stop the clamp going up inside it.

TBH the most difficult part of the whole exercise was jacking the D3 up (not having an air jack Embarassed ... yet 8) ), except...


How the hell do you get the sensor cable to plug back in to where it belongs? I got the old one off without a problem, and routing the new one was not even too much trouble, since there is no liner at the rear. However, the cable plugs in behind the air suspension, which makes it very difficult to see what's going on. I presume it's simple when they're built, since the body's probably not on when the cable is fitted, but taking it off to change it later seems a bit extreme!

Anyway, I found that you can get the socket (the part "on the car") to a visible position, but I still can't get the plug (on the end of the new cable) to click into position correctly. Can anyone tell me what I'm doing wrong?


Can't say I had too much difficulty on the rear Ian, from memory think I took the end of the sensor attached to the car out of its holder, made the connection and then refitted the connected wire back into its holder. Wait until you see the front! Smile
 D3 TDV6SE
Defender 110 V8 lpg

www.carlyonbay.net
www.thepavillioncarlyonbay.co.uk 
 
Post #27627822nd Mar 2008 2:24 pm
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Robert Page
 


Member Since: 02 Jan 2008
Location: Avalon Beach, FL, USA
Posts: 44

United States 2005 LR3 4.4 V8 Base 5 Seat Auto Java BlackLR3

Thanks Jeff. Anybody have the manual section for replacing the pads and rotors pdf'd?? Trying to find all the specs for a V8 Petrol Brake Job.
 '05 LR3 (Disco III) Trail, 5 Passenger V8 petrol, LHD, ARB Bull Bar, Warn XD9000 Winch
'93 Range Rover, 3.5" Lift, Custom Front Bumper, Warn M8000 Winch
'76 IHC Scout II, 345 cid V8, TF27 Auto
'07 GMC Sierra 2500 HD Duramax, Rover Transporter 
 
Post #27627922nd Mar 2008 2:27 pm
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