hiflyer wrote:

97k. Still original pads, many thanks for all the info.

Do you ever stop or slow down. I ws pleasedwith getting 28k miles and 65% used on the fronts, 50% used on the backs (according to the stealers), the that's a serious distance on original pads, even beats Simon.

I suppose it does make a difference on how often you drive off-road and get the brakes full of dirt and mud. Good posting - thanks Gareth, I'll be doing mine in the next few months
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Don't Eat the Yellow Snow

hiflyer wrote:

97k. Still original pads, many thanks for all the info.

You SURE someone didn't change them without you noticing - at a service maybe, seems a huge mileage.

Hope your gearbox is OK

And your front bumper


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Cheers

Simon

TDV6 S Auto - Zambezi Silver - JE Tune - RRS 19" - Sidesteps - Roof Rails
Body Side Strips - Xenons - Bright Pack - Cold Pack - Premium Stereo
Alpine Roof - Towpack - Alpine Touchscreen Satnav - Veba Rear DVD changer
Alpine Roof Monitor - Webasto FBH Timer - Awesome Brembo Frt & S/C Rr Brakes

lr1 wrote:

I do have replacement sensor cables and am going to cut them, and put a suitable connector closer to the brake to make changing easier, something LR should have done (eg. like Porsche).

Robert Page wrote:

I have located good quality aftermarket pads, but have a question. Is the "wear sensor" integrated into the pads or is it just attached to it? I have 2 part numbers, one with the sensor, one without. After reading all of this thread, I believe this is simply the sensor wire/harness included with the pads.

Wagner Thermoquiet - Front Premium Semi-Metallic MX1099 $48 USD
Rear Premium Semi Metallic MX1098 $42 USD

No sensor Wire indicated with these. I do not have a warning light yet, but my rear pads are about 6mm so I am going to replace them and want to be sure I am buying the correct parts.

IanD wrote:

I just replaced the rear pads last night, and found the instructions spot on

A couple of comments:

1) I found a 13mm socket to be easier than a spanner for the caliper bolts

2) I also used the G-clamp method of getting the piston back in, but rather than messing around cutting pieces of wood, just used the spanner across the piston to stop the clamp going up inside it.

TBH the most difficult part of the whole exercise was jacking the D3 up (not having an air jack ... yet ), except...


How the hell do you get the sensor cable to plug back in to where it belongs? I got the old one off without a problem, and routing the new one was not even too much trouble, since there is no liner at the rear. However, the cable plugs in behind the air suspension, which makes it very difficult to see what's going on. I presume it's simple when they're built, since the body's probably not on when the cable is fitted, but taking it off to change it later seems a bit extreme!

Anyway, I found that you can get the socket (the part "on the car") to a visible position, but I still can't get the plug (on the end of the new cable) to click into position correctly. Can anyone tell me what I'm doing wrong?

Can't say I had too much difficulty on the rear Ian, from memory think I took the end of the sensor attached to the car out of its holder, made the connection and then refitted the connected wire back into its holder. Wait until you see the front!
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D3 TDV6SE
Defender 110 V8 lpg

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