- You are currently viewing DISCO3.CO.UK as a guest - Register to take part or Log In
hiflyer
Member Since: 06 May 2005
Location: Co. Mayo
Posts: 5
|
97k. Still original pads, many thanks for all the info.
|
27th Nov 2007 9:55 pm |
|
|
MrH
Member Since: 08 Aug 2007
Location: lost in the forest
Posts: 7754
|
hiflyer wrote:97k. Still original pads, many thanks for all the info.
Do you ever stop or slow down. I ws pleasedwith getting 28k miles and 65% used on the fronts, 50% used on the backs (according to the stealers), the that's a serious distance on original pads, even beats Simon.
I suppose it does make a difference on how often you drive off-road and get the brakes full of dirt and mud. Good posting - thanks Gareth, I'll be doing mine in the next few months LRs are a fond memory, apart from the maintenance.
|
8th Jan 2008 3:52 pm |
|
|
|
Sam131fr
Member Since: 22 Aug 2005
Location: Chaintreaux 77
Posts: 51
|
Hi !
Do someone know where is the brake fluid tank located ? I ask in order to know where to verify the level...
Cheers
Sam 2005 Discovery 3 TDV6 HSE Auto - 7 seat - Bonati Grey - Alpaca leather
|
20th Feb 2008 11:19 am |
|
|
Slimer
Site Moderator
Member Since: 06 Jan 2005
Location: Last Exit to Nowhere
Posts: 16295
|
It's in the second battery box The End
|
20th Feb 2008 11:29 am |
|
|
simonsi
Member Since: 14 Oct 2007
Location: Auckland
Posts: 1264
|
hiflyer wrote:97k. Still original pads, many thanks for all the info.
You SURE someone didn't change them without you noticing - at a service maybe, seems a huge mileage.
Hope your gearbox is OK
And your front bumper
Cheers
Simon
|
20th Feb 2008 11:47 am |
|
|
Rob Bruce
Member Since: 18 Jun 2006
Location: Canberra
Posts: 687
|
60,000 km lots of dirt, sand some mud [ drought ] and pads have plenty of meat left
It helps not to alternate brake and accelerator flat to the floor
Rob
|
20th Feb 2008 11:58 am |
|
|
IanD
Member Since: 11 Mar 2006
Location: (Too) close to Paris
Posts: 516
|
I just replaced the rear pads last night, and found the instructions spot on
A couple of comments:
1) I found a 13mm socket to be easier than a spanner for the caliper bolts
2) I also used the G-clamp method of getting the piston back in, but rather than messing around cutting pieces of wood, just used the spanner across the piston to stop the clamp going up inside it.
TBH the most difficult part of the whole exercise was jacking the D3 up (not having an air jack ... yet 8) ), except...
How the hell do you get the sensor cable to plug back in to where it belongs? I got the old one off without a problem, and routing the new one was not even too much trouble, since there is no liner at the rear. However, the cable plugs in behind the air suspension, which makes it very difficult to see what's going on. I presume it's simple when they're built, since the body's probably not on when the cable is fitted, but taking it off to change it later seems a bit extreme!
Anyway, I found that you can get the socket (the part "on the car") to a visible position, but I still can't get the plug (on the end of the new cable) to click into position correctly. Can anyone tell me what I'm doing wrong?
|
21st Feb 2008 5:25 pm |
|
|
IanD
Member Since: 11 Mar 2006
Location: (Too) close to Paris
Posts: 516
|
And another thing...
lr1 wrote:I do have replacement sensor cables and am going to cut them, and put a suitable connector closer to the brake to make changing easier, something LR should have done (eg. like Porsche).
Has anyone done this?
From the hassle involved in getting at the connectors, it looks like it could be a good idea (as long as a dealer doesn't go and rip the whole lot out during a service). What has/could be recommended as a connector?
Also, given that both times our brake pad warning light has come on it the pad without the sensor has been the most worn, has anyone thought of fitting another sensor to the other side and just cabling across the existing wiring on the other side? Why they only fitted one per "axle" is beyond me - cost cutting I suppose.
|
21st Feb 2008 7:11 pm |
|
|
ianv
Member Since: 20 Dec 2007
Location: Bungendore, New South Wales
Posts: 338
|
I'll go with the long mileage guys, 60K and 65%worn, slightly more wear up front.
Lots of long highway work, daily commute 40K each way with light traffic. I had to replace a rear wear sensor after getting a stick between the wheel and caliper that broke the wire. Downside of 17" wheels is the small clearance from Calipers. TDV6
|
4th Mar 2008 12:26 pm |
|
|
Sam131fr
Member Since: 22 Aug 2005
Location: Chaintreaux 77
Posts: 51
|
Hi guys !
i have another stupid question...what does used sensor looks like after the warning light came on on the board ?
I ask because i just changed my brake pads (because of the light), and saw no pb on the sensors...
Cheers
Sam 2005 Discovery 3 TDV6 HSE Auto - 7 seat - Bonati Grey - Alpaca leather
|
13th Mar 2008 4:54 pm |
|
|
Robert Page
Member Since: 02 Jan 2008
Location: Avalon Beach, FL, USA
Posts: 44
|
I have located good quality aftermarket pads, but have a question. Is the "wear sensor" integrated into the pads or is it just attached to it? I have 2 part numbers, one with the sensor, one without. After reading all of this thread, I believe this is simply the sensor wire/harness included with the pads.
Wagner Thermoquiet - Front Premium Semi-Metallic MX1099 $48 USD
Rear Premium Semi Metallic MX1098 $42 USD
No sensor Wire indicated with these. I do not have a warning light yet, but my rear pads are about 6mm so I am going to replace them and want to be sure I am buying the correct parts. '05 LR3 (Disco III) Trail, 5 Passenger V8 petrol, LHD, ARB Bull Bar, Warn XD9000 Winch
'93 Range Rover, 3.5" Lift, Custom Front Bumper, Warn M8000 Winch
'76 IHC Scout II, 345 cid V8, TF27 Auto
'07 GMC Sierra 2500 HD Duramax, Rover Transporter
|
22nd Mar 2008 1:27 pm |
|
|
jeff
Member Since: 18 Jun 2005
Location: Cornwall
Posts: 393
|
Robert Page wrote:I have located good quality aftermarket pads, but have a question. Is the "wear sensor" integrated into the pads or is it just attached to it? I have 2 part numbers, one with the sensor, one without. After reading all of this thread, I believe this is simply the sensor wire/harness included with the pads.
Wagner Thermoquiet - Front Premium Semi-Metallic MX1099 $48 USD
Rear Premium Semi Metallic MX1098 $42 USD
No sensor Wire indicated with these. I do not have a warning light yet, but my rear pads are about 6mm so I am going to replace them and want to be sure I am buying the correct parts.
Hi Robert, the wear sensor is seperate to the pads and not built in, it fits into its own holder and is retained by a small spring. If you get a warning light you'll need to replace the sensor but if you replace the pads before it activates the sensors will be fine as they are. D3 TDV6SE
Defender 110 V8 lpg
www.carlyonbay.net
www.thepavillioncarlyonbay.co.uk
|
22nd Mar 2008 2:20 pm |
|
|
jeff
Member Since: 18 Jun 2005
Location: Cornwall
Posts: 393
|
IanD wrote:I just replaced the rear pads last night, and found the instructions spot on
A couple of comments:
1) I found a 13mm socket to be easier than a spanner for the caliper bolts
2) I also used the G-clamp method of getting the piston back in, but rather than messing around cutting pieces of wood, just used the spanner across the piston to stop the clamp going up inside it.
TBH the most difficult part of the whole exercise was jacking the D3 up (not having an air jack ... yet 8) ), except...
How the hell do you get the sensor cable to plug back in to where it belongs? I got the old one off without a problem, and routing the new one was not even too much trouble, since there is no liner at the rear. However, the cable plugs in behind the air suspension, which makes it very difficult to see what's going on. I presume it's simple when they're built, since the body's probably not on when the cable is fitted, but taking it off to change it later seems a bit extreme!
Anyway, I found that you can get the socket (the part "on the car") to a visible position, but I still can't get the plug (on the end of the new cable) to click into position correctly. Can anyone tell me what I'm doing wrong?
Can't say I had too much difficulty on the rear Ian, from memory think I took the end of the sensor attached to the car out of its holder, made the connection and then refitted the connected wire back into its holder. Wait until you see the front! D3 TDV6SE
Defender 110 V8 lpg
www.carlyonbay.net
www.thepavillioncarlyonbay.co.uk
|
22nd Mar 2008 2:24 pm |
|
|
Robert Page
Member Since: 02 Jan 2008
Location: Avalon Beach, FL, USA
Posts: 44
|
Thanks Jeff. Anybody have the manual section for replacing the pads and rotors pdf'd?? Trying to find all the specs for a V8 Petrol Brake Job. '05 LR3 (Disco III) Trail, 5 Passenger V8 petrol, LHD, ARB Bull Bar, Warn XD9000 Winch
'93 Range Rover, 3.5" Lift, Custom Front Bumper, Warn M8000 Winch
'76 IHC Scout II, 345 cid V8, TF27 Auto
'07 GMC Sierra 2500 HD Duramax, Rover Transporter
|
22nd Mar 2008 2:27 pm |
|
|
|
Posting Rules
You cannot post new topics in this forum You cannot reply to topics in this forum You cannot edit your posts in this forum You cannot delete your posts in this forum You cannot vote in polls in this forum
|
|
|
DISCO3.CO.UK Copyright © 2004-2024 Futuranet Ltd & Martin Lewis
|
|