DrLex
Member Since: 15 Jul 2005
Location: Ciderspace [Oi be in Zummerset]
Posts: 4863
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"Giving up gracefully" sounds more like a battery not charging properly than a receiver issue; can you get your dealer to read any logged fault codes?
My wife was adamant that both keys were not working properly, but since I only changed one battery, I put it down to a combination of short trips and an unused spare. Time flies like an arrow; fruit flies like a banana
Member of Club Med Sucks
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 20th Jan 2010 10:41 pm |
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Matt.y
Member Since: 02 Jan 2006
Location: Norfolk
Posts: 52
  
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Boy, you've just got to love landrovers! after over a month of not working on the fob's they have both started working again!
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| 6th Feb 2010 11:17 pm |
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slateking
Member Since: 17 Aug 2011
Location: scotland
Posts: 1
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hi...disco3 LOST KEY and the spare key will not open car......any ideas ..thx
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| 17th Aug 2011 11:22 pm |
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albal
Member Since: 31 Jul 2011
Location: Southampton
Posts: 592
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You should be able to open the car using the key (not the fob) on the front passenger door. Look under the handle on the rear section and you will see a slot to insert the key, push the key in to release the cover. Then unlock the door and leave your fob in the ignition for a 10 minutes or so. Hopefully you have enough charge for the fob to work.
By the way does anyone know what sort of battery is inside these fobs? Depending on what type they are they need different care to prolong their life.
Cheers,
Al
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| 18th Aug 2011 12:38 am |
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bbyer
Member Since: 25 Dec 2008
Location: Edmonton Alberta
Posts: 701
  
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| Probably a faulty splice located under the door sill, |
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I assume that neither of your remotes will operate the lock unlock. The odds are that both key fobs did not fail at the same time; hence the problem is a corroded splice under one of the front door sills - a common problem in wet areas.
This link shows the splice you are looking for.
http://www.disco3.co.uk/forum/topic54235.h...%2Blocking
This thread at the bottom has a couple of good pictures of the splice and where it is located in the big wiring loom. This was on the right side but I think there are two splice locations, one on the right for the right side doors and the other on the left for the left side doors.
http://www.landroversonly.com/forums/f41/2...eps-42274/
This is a link to the door lock wiring diagram. I think the failure is either splice SJ11 or SJ670 on page 222, as you are looking for green/white wires.
http://www.disco3.co.uk/gallery/albums/use..._226~0.pdf 2005 LR3 HSE 4.4L AJ-V8 petrol; Traxide Dual Battery; PIAA 2500K Yellow Ion H11 Fog Light bulbs; CounterAct LT-2 Capacitive Corrosion control; LLumar AIR80 Blue clear Infra Red blocking side window film; Liftgate manual release; Schrader Valve "air in" mod to OEM air suspension reservoir tank; Akebono ceramic pads; OEM solid vented discs; LR4 design hitch receiver; Wiggs D4 MOST bluetooth module; Clock on the Dash; 3 Flash signal light mod; Backup Camera; 2015/16 Nav Data update.
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| 18th Aug 2011 2:22 am |
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Mr.Pastry
Member Since: 24 Nov 2010
Location: South Wales
Posts: 482
  
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I am changing the battery in my spare key. It has sat in a kitchen drawer for about a year and after a week of use in the car now, it will not hold its charge.
It is a bit fiddly to split the key apart, but if you do it slowly, it comes apart neatly.
Gently cut around the seam with a sharp knife but don't cut too deeply.
You need patience to do this & a steady hand.
The re-chargeable battery is a Panasonic VL2330-1HFE (horizontal fitment) 3 volt coin cell.
These are widely available.
You'll need a soldering iron to remove the old one & fit the new one.
I ordered a couple from CPC & cost £2.57 + vat each.
You can get them on eeeeebay for around £10.00 each. Mitsubishi Outlander Phev 4H 2018.
Mitsubishi Outlander Phev 4H 2015 - gone.
Discovery 4 HSE - gone.
Discovery 3 S - gone.
Discovery 3 - gone.
Discovery 1 - gone.
Defender 90 300TDI - gone.
Defender 90 200TDI - gone.
Landrover 90 19J - gone.
Argocat 8x8 - gone.
Argocat 6x6 - gone
RR/LR V8 Hybrid 100" - gone.
Rangerover Classic 3.5 - gone.
Series III 2.25- gone.
Series IIa 3.0V6- gone.
Series I - 80" gone.
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| 18th Aug 2011 10:47 am |
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albal
Member Since: 31 Jul 2011
Location: Southampton
Posts: 592
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I know a lot of Lithium cells tend to die if they are left for anytime completely flat. I'm not sure if Lithium Vanadium Pentoxide suffer from the problem as much. Personally I only have the one fob at the moment but if I had two I think I would rotate them on a monthly basis to make sure both of them are getting charged.
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| 18th Aug 2011 11:00 am |
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Jim1000
Member Since: 26 Jun 2011
Location: Twickenham, Middlesex, UK
Posts: 315
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Does anyone know if you can charge it just by the key being in the ignition, or does the ignition have to be turned and/or engine running for the fob to charge? Nov 04 D3 TDV6 HSE Java Black
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| 1st Sep 2011 3:39 pm |
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bbyer
Member Since: 25 Dec 2008
Location: Edmonton Alberta
Posts: 701
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You can charge two at the same time by taping the second fob to one in the ignition but the engine must be running. 2005 LR3 HSE 4.4L AJ-V8 petrol; Traxide Dual Battery; PIAA 2500K Yellow Ion H11 Fog Light bulbs; CounterAct LT-2 Capacitive Corrosion control; LLumar AIR80 Blue clear Infra Red blocking side window film; Liftgate manual release; Schrader Valve "air in" mod to OEM air suspension reservoir tank; Akebono ceramic pads; OEM solid vented discs; LR4 design hitch receiver; Wiggs D4 MOST bluetooth module; Clock on the Dash; 3 Flash signal light mod; Backup Camera; 2015/16 Nav Data update.
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| 1st Sep 2011 3:54 pm |
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Jim1000
Member Since: 26 Jun 2011
Location: Twickenham, Middlesex, UK
Posts: 315
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Cheers buyer. Thought it must be logical but thought worth asking. Nov 04 D3 TDV6 HSE Java Black
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| 1st Sep 2011 4:16 pm |
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bbyer
Member Since: 25 Dec 2008
Location: Edmonton Alberta
Posts: 701
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| More on the operation of the central locking and key fob. |
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Below is a link to my gallery re the operation of the central locking system including the key fob, a 17 page pdf.
http://www.disco3.co.uk/gallery/albums/use..._pages.pdf 2005 LR3 HSE 4.4L AJ-V8 petrol; Traxide Dual Battery; PIAA 2500K Yellow Ion H11 Fog Light bulbs; CounterAct LT-2 Capacitive Corrosion control; LLumar AIR80 Blue clear Infra Red blocking side window film; Liftgate manual release; Schrader Valve "air in" mod to OEM air suspension reservoir tank; Akebono ceramic pads; OEM solid vented discs; LR4 design hitch receiver; Wiggs D4 MOST bluetooth module; Clock on the Dash; 3 Flash signal light mod; Backup Camera; 2015/16 Nav Data update.
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| 2nd Sep 2011 2:41 am |
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Jim1000
Member Since: 26 Jun 2011
Location: Twickenham, Middlesex, UK
Posts: 315
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Cheers buyer. V informative. Have saved it.
Interesting that it says life of the battery 14 years. Many seem to be having trouble after 6 or 7 years.
Says range reduces when battery power reduced which is why I can sometimes only open when I point down through the roof.
Says battery non-servicable. I'm going to risk one of my fobs and try soldering in a new lithium battery soon. Nov 04 D3 TDV6 HSE Java Black
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| 2nd Sep 2011 8:49 am |
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bbyer
Member Since: 25 Dec 2008
Location: Edmonton Alberta
Posts: 701
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| Remote tear apart pictures |
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Below is a link to a thread where BBS Spy has posted jpg's of the internals of the key fob and some hints re battery replacement.
http://www.disco3.co.uk/forum/topic39609.h...key+%2Bfob
If you end of wrecking your key fob, it is not totally worthless as you then have a key suitable for hiding on the exterior somewhere so that you can at least gain access to the interior via the exterior keyhole if you lock yourself out. 2005 LR3 HSE 4.4L AJ-V8 petrol; Traxide Dual Battery; PIAA 2500K Yellow Ion H11 Fog Light bulbs; CounterAct LT-2 Capacitive Corrosion control; LLumar AIR80 Blue clear Infra Red blocking side window film; Liftgate manual release; Schrader Valve "air in" mod to OEM air suspension reservoir tank; Akebono ceramic pads; OEM solid vented discs; LR4 design hitch receiver; Wiggs D4 MOST bluetooth module; Clock on the Dash; 3 Flash signal light mod; Backup Camera; 2015/16 Nav Data update.
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| 2nd Sep 2011 2:00 pm |
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ZacSmith
Member Since: 26 Aug 2010
Location: Dover
Posts: 709
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Hi - I am in the process of butchering my key fob and have a quick question.
Do I need to solder the new battery in (I couldn't tape it for example)?
And if so, do I need to solder both sides?
Thanks VIN: A175A328***
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| 11th Oct 2011 5:07 pm |
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bbyer
Member Since: 25 Dec 2008
Location: Edmonton Alberta
Posts: 701
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| Sounds like you have to de-solder and solder on both sides. |
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I found the instructions below, (probably from a D3 thread), and that is what they say.
Battery Replacement.
I looked on-line and found the replacement battery, a Panasonic VL2330 1HFE & purchased it from www.cellpacksolutions.com, cost me incl postage around 8 quid. This arrived 4 days later.
Removing the old battery
If you look at the pic of the printed circuit board (PCB) within the key fob in the gallery you will see 2 soldered legs at 10 o'clock & 2 o'clock positions (PCB labelled C16 & C15 in white writing underneath the legs). These hold the battery terminals into the board & give it it's power connectivity. To remove the old you need a good quality, fine tipped soldering iron &, I would suggest a solder sucker. Heat the solder points & remove the old solder using the sucker being careful not to place too much heat on the board & doing as fast as possible to avoid any damage. Once both legs have the solder removed you can gently ease the old battery out of it's holder & discard it. To fit the new battery simply reverse the process & re-solder the legs in position. 2005 LR3 HSE 4.4L AJ-V8 petrol; Traxide Dual Battery; PIAA 2500K Yellow Ion H11 Fog Light bulbs; CounterAct LT-2 Capacitive Corrosion control; LLumar AIR80 Blue clear Infra Red blocking side window film; Liftgate manual release; Schrader Valve "air in" mod to OEM air suspension reservoir tank; Akebono ceramic pads; OEM solid vented discs; LR4 design hitch receiver; Wiggs D4 MOST bluetooth module; Clock on the Dash; 3 Flash signal light mod; Backup Camera; 2015/16 Nav Data update.
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| 11th Oct 2011 9:48 pm |
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