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thechasmanblue
Member Since: 12 May 2011
Location: Surrey
Posts: 8
 
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Hi
Can anyone give a bit of guidance about how to actually remove all the trim to get to the loom?
The B post and sill trim comes off easily (although the little clips that hold this onto the channel cover can ping off and disappear).
Without resorting to violence I'll later regret, what I can't work out is how to take off the kick panel or the channel cover itself. There seem to be little white lugs holding the cover in and it looks like it should slide forward to clear these.
Also how much of the carpet needs to be lifted to remove the panel as I'm trying to disturb as little as possible so as not to set off a chain reaction of new problems.
Whilst banging around I accidentally bumped the key and the locking worked and whilst it continues to do so for now, I know I'll need to get to this again sometime soon.
Thx[/img]
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 10th Dec 2011 11:04 am |
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HowardHolmes
Member Since: 07 Feb 2010
Location: Derby
Posts: 17
 
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You need to take the trim off from the bottom of the seat, there is a little screw round the back of the trim you need to take out, also you need to take trim off from the pillar between doors & on side of front foot well you need to take of bonnet release handle as well, then you can get trim off that covers loom. click on link on bbyer's post some good picture's. you can leave carpet in place but worth checking front to see if it is wet under it!!
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| 10th Dec 2011 4:09 pm |
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Da1sycat
Member Since: 20 Nov 2011
Location: UK
Posts: 66
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Guys I'm new to the Disco but have already benefitted from your experience regarding brake light bulbs, removal of interior trim, sourcing and replacing the steering wheel and installation of the tailgate stay! Add to that a dodgy key!!!!!
In my case the brand new spare worked fine but my everyday key just would not unlock the car.
I noted that the computer was failing to register "low battery" for the fob, so again using the experience of this forum I just cut the beggar open. Lets face it if it ain't working you've nothing to lose. Mine was an absolute pain to open but in the end all it needed was 2mm of cardboard under the battery. Yes you read that right, no diagnostic charge, no replacement battery, no soldering, no £150 new key, just a small disc of cardboard. Even that was free as I cut it off the box that Tawny sent my new steering wheel in! 
Fob now held together by cable ties but that's £150 towards the MOT.
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| 10th Dec 2011 10:27 pm |
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thechasmanblue
Member Since: 12 May 2011
Location: Surrey
Posts: 8
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Thanks for replies so far.
Trim off but no splice to be found in the wiring loom on either side. Any ideas where else it might be found? Mine is an HSE registered Dec 2005 if that makes any difference.
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| 22nd Dec 2011 2:23 pm |
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bbyer
Member Since: 25 Dec 2008
Location: Edmonton Alberta
Posts: 701
  
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| Spice is buried in there somewhere. |
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My understanding is that the splice is buried inside the wiring bundle and hence not easy to find, but it is there. Actually there are two spices, one for the door locks and one for the lights re the window up down buttons. If you found neither, you were not digging deep enough into the bundle.
The door lock splice wires are green with a white stripe I think, and the window button wires, red. All wires are real fine light gauge conductors. The splice is located between the A door post and front edge of the front seat, about half way in between. Also even if the spice looks good, there is probably corrosion within, so just redo it. 2005 LR3 HSE 4.4L AJ-V8 petrol; Traxide Dual Battery; PIAA 2500K Yellow Ion H11 Fog Light bulbs; CounterAct LT-2 Capacitive Corrosion control; LLumar AIR80 Blue clear Infra Red blocking side window film; Liftgate manual release; Schrader Valve "air in" mod to OEM air suspension reservoir tank; Akebono ceramic pads; OEM solid vented discs; LR4 design hitch receiver; Wiggs D4 MOST bluetooth module; Clock on the Dash; 3 Flash signal light mod; Backup Camera; 2015/16 Nav Data update.
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| 22nd Dec 2011 3:25 pm |
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DD
Member Since: 12 May 2012
Location: UK
Posts: 13
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Hi - I seem to have this problem!
I've opened up the loom and found the red wire splice, but no sign of the green splice. I've looked all the way from the front of the door, to about halfway along the seat. I've opened the loom right up. The red splice was easy to see, so I can't see that I'm missing the green spice - is it definitely there on all cars? Mine is a very early Nov 2004?
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| 12th May 2012 10:55 pm |
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bbyer
Member Since: 25 Dec 2008
Location: Edmonton Alberta
Posts: 701
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| hope the splice is not in current production units |
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Towards the bottom of the link, (post #12), are two jpg's showing the wires you are looking for.
http://www.landroversonly.com/forums/f41/2...eps-42274/
I do not know if the splice is in your early production unit but one hopes it is not still in current production units. 2005 LR3 HSE 4.4L AJ-V8 petrol; Traxide Dual Battery; PIAA 2500K Yellow Ion H11 Fog Light bulbs; CounterAct LT-2 Capacitive Corrosion control; LLumar AIR80 Blue clear Infra Red blocking side window film; Liftgate manual release; Schrader Valve "air in" mod to OEM air suspension reservoir tank; Akebono ceramic pads; OEM solid vented discs; LR4 design hitch receiver; Wiggs D4 MOST bluetooth module; Clock on the Dash; 3 Flash signal light mod; Backup Camera; 2015/16 Nav Data update.
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| 13th May 2012 5:37 am |
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DD
Member Since: 12 May 2012
Location: UK
Posts: 13
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Hi - Thanks for the link. I'd actually seen these before and seems like I'm looking in the right place - but no splice!
Others seem to have had trouble finding the spice too - I might star a new thread to see if they can say how they eventually cured their problem.
Thanks for your response.
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| 13th May 2012 10:35 am |
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Disco_T
Member Since: 18 Apr 2013
Location: QLD
Posts: 1
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Da1sycat wrote:Guys I'm new to the Disco but have already benefitted from your experience regarding brake light bulbs, removal of interior trim, sourcing and replacing the steering wheel and installation of the tailgate stay! Add to that a dodgy key!!!!!
In my case the brand new spare worked fine but my everyday key just would not unlock the car.
I noted that the computer was failing to register "low battery" for the fob, so again using the experience of this forum I just cut the beggar open. Lets face it if it ain't working you've nothing to lose. Mine was an absolute pain to open but in the end all it needed was 2mm of cardboard under the battery. Yes you read that right, no diagnostic charge, no replacement battery, no soldering, no £150 new key, just a small disc of cardboard. Even that was free as I cut it off the box that Tawny sent my new steering wheel in!
Fob now held together by cable ties but that's £150 towards the MOT.
Thank you! Thank you!
Had the same problem with locking & unlocking not working on my 2008 Discovery 3 SE. Was not looking forward to the whole wire loom scenario, but wasn't too keen on breaking open the fob either... 'tis the only one I have... but as you say, I had nothing to loose. Seemed like the easiest option to start with anyway.
Mine wasn't too difficult to pry open, carefully wedging and twisting a screwdriver along the seam until it popped open. Tested it while open by just putting some upward pressure on the battery... and yes, it worked!! Slipped a bit of cardboard under the battery, put it all back together... works as good as new!!
Perhaps we're one of the lucky ones... thanks again for the great tip! 
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| 18th Apr 2013 2:04 am |
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Disco Trek
Member Since: 01 Mar 2013
Location: Middle of the Country
Posts: 12
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I got my Disco with only one key, and managed to get another (aftermarket) one for only a few quid (I was warned it might not work) My local independant garage had a go at programming it for me, and now it starts the engine and runs fine, but the buttons don't lock / unlock the vehicle. I know the battery is OK (I tested it before I glued the case together)
I have read some other posts on here, and realise that this key is different from the LR ones - this key has a separate transponder and PCB (not like the LR antenna type) so my guess is that the transponder programmed OK but not the PCB that sends signals to the RF reciever in the head lining. So:
1. Is there any way of telling if the fob is emitting any frequency at all?
2. Does anybody know where I could get the fob programmed to the reciever (have been advised to try non-LR software)
Grateful for any ideas.
As a tip for all you guys out there trying to be careful with dismantling the key case, you can buy replacements from ebay for less than a tenner. My first key was completely gone through the rubber buttons so you could see the PCB (previous lady owner's fingernails) and now looks as good as new. Why travel on tarmac when there's so many choices?
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| 17th May 2013 11:01 pm |
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mjsent
Member Since: 07 Jul 2011
Location: staffs
Posts: 15
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intermitent remote locking Report post
bit of a teaser here, the remote works when it wants to, have gained access through the passenger door but the dash mounted open and close function will not work iether, now if its the key fob surley once in the car then that button on the dash should work ????? shouldnt it, if its the reciever in the roof , again surley the dash would work, so am I right in thinking that it could be this splice in the wireing that I keep reading about, really look forward to the help that this forum brings from the undoubtably most knowlegable crowd of people who never worked at a landrover stealers but are noticably more helpfull at a cost that seems most bearable, so with thanks in anticepation
mike
ps,, Happy Xmas
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| 21st Dec 2013 4:40 pm |
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bookert
Member Since: 21 Nov 2005
Location: North East Somerset
Posts: 29
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I spent a long time suspecting a keyfob fault; both would work, neither would work, one or the other would work; if the car had stood for a few days then the fobs wouldn't work, but then after driving they were fine. Was it the receiver? one fob or the other? were the fobs not holding charge or not charging at all?
I suppose what I'm trying to say is that the failure was not at all systematic or repeatable up to the point where the fobs stopped working for good.
The problem...it was the splice connection.
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| 21st Dec 2013 9:20 pm |
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Ciaranclarke
Member Since: 02 Feb 2014
Location: west
Posts: 7
 
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| lost all keys how much for a new disco 3 key |
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Hey does any know how much for a new disco 3 key from dealer
and are there realistic cheaper options
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| 2nd Feb 2014 8:42 pm |
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albal
Member Since: 31 Jul 2011
Location: Southampton
Posts: 592
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My answer from memory for now.... someone who knows more will hopefully have more accurate info later. You need the key cut, the fob and then all of the fobs present and reprogrammed at the same time.
Cheaper options are not to cut the key, or cut just a key, or not lock the car and leave the key in it :-/ i.e. not realistic - either have the key or don' t have it, there is no try.
You can't buy a second hand fob and use that.
Last time I looked (2.5 years ago) I seem to remember it was about £200 plus the VAT plus the programming fee, people with IID's and Faultmates can do the programming I think and dealer charges £65. At the time the chip was not available so I didn't go ahead. I've now added this to my shopping list (feck).
Personally I only have one key and now I have said this I will now lose that key and be stuck 
Searching on the forum here will give you some more info. Good luck and report back on your findings
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| 2nd Feb 2014 9:08 pm |
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