no you don't need to raise the car as you simply use the two hoses connected to the cooler/radiator (the IN and the OUT from the tranny)
youl'll get the old from the OUT with the motor running and you'll top with fresh into the IN with engine stopped
sorry for the delay, fk i'm always late
F.
8th Jan 2014 7:01 pm
jimbo1981
Member Since: 25 Oct 2013
Location: Harare
Posts: 110
Filo, a few questions:
1. Did you insert your pipe in the jerry can all the way to the bottom of the can so that the fluid was pumped out from there? Or did you just tilt the jerry can to get the fluid to pump out from where the quick coupling was?
2. Did you simply screw in your quick coupling from the outside of the can or did you (somehow!) fasten it from the back, inside the jerry can, as well?
3. Is it a problem if air is pumped into the return line to the transmission? I assume not as most auto gearboxes have a breather, but wanted to check first!
1. Did you insert your pipe in the jerry can all the way to the bottom of the can so that the fluid was pumped out from there? Or did you just tilt the jerry can to get the fluid to pump out from where the quick coupling was?
I just tilted the can
Quote:
2. Did you simply screw in your quick coupling from the outside of the can or did you (somehow!) fasten it from the back, inside the jerry can, as well?
can't remember but i still have it so i'll check this evening and will let you know
Quote:
3. Is it a problem if air is pumped into the return line to the transmission? I assume not as most auto gearboxes have a breather, but wanted to check first!
Thanks
i don't think a few bubbles will be a problem
anyway you will have to check fluid level at the end of the procedure by opening the filling plug... to cut the story short following the ZF procedure. Check for the up to date doc on zf.com
i've found this, don't know if it's up to date
http://www.zf.com/media/media/document/cor...atalog.pdf
F.
22nd Jan 2014 3:57 pm
jimbo1981
Member Since: 25 Oct 2013
Location: Harare
Posts: 110
Thanks for the quick response! Sorry, one more question.
What size were the extension hoses you used? They look like 10mm fuel hose and 3mm silicone vacuum hose, is that correct?
I don't have access to my vehicle until the weekend when I want to do the work so Im hoping I have all the right stuff by the time I get there 2005 Discovery 3 2.7 TDV6 HSE (Auto)
the blue one was 9-10 rilsan the other was simply lying around
you can use the rislan for both hoses or it could be better a 12mm copper hose. On the other hand it won't fit the quick coupling.
forgot to check the can
sorry will try to keep in mind
didn't find the can so probably i threw it away but if i recall correctly the reason why i fitted the quick connect next to the cap was to be able to fit a counter nut behind it using my medium finger
F.
24th Jan 2014 12:23 pm
disco4ever
Member Since: 23 Dec 2013
Location: under the car
Posts: 402
reading about filo´s way of changing the auto gearbox fluid I was encouraged to do it myself.
I disconnected the upper rubber hose on the right side of the radiator- seen from standing in front of the engine, bonnet open. This is the hose bringing the hot auto gearbox oil to the radiator for cooling. The disconnected hose has an inner dia. of approx. 10 mm. To this hose I connected via a plastic coupling a water hose from the garden sprinklers.
This reddish hose in the picture is spilling out the old auto gearbox oil. I then connected another hose of 10 mm to the radiator. This is the hose which will be used to fill the auto gearbox oil.
Running the engine for 30 seconds has spilled out 4,8 liters of old and black auto gearbox oil.
Fresh oil was filled in by using a pressurized sprinkler for 5,95 € to which I connected the clear 10 mm hose at the end.
The entire process of changing the fluid for a first time took me around 1 hour including the fluid level check. The gear box behaviour has changed for the good and I will do it a 2nd time very soon.
Had 2 tubes of Dr. Tranny ready to go in as well but no need at this point Achim
own garage certified LR tech
Disco 2 TD5 MY 2001 - gone but still driven by another owner
Defender 110 TD5 driving me bananas with all faults
Disco 3 TDV 6 HSE MY 2005 gone @280.000 km
Disco 4 SDV 6 HSE MY 2012
8th Aug 2014 4:13 pm
StornowayStu
Member Since: 10 Aug 2012
Location: Austin TX
Posts: 331
Dumb question - do you have to worry about air getting in the loop and needing to be bled out somehow (like cooling or power steering ? ) or does it work itself out through the radiator and back to the pan ?
8th Aug 2014 4:20 pm
disco4ever
Member Since: 23 Dec 2013
Location: under the car
Posts: 402
air escapes from the cooler inside the radiator once the hose and the pressurized can is disconncted. At least I saw bubbles mounting before I disconnected the hose.Achim
own garage certified LR tech
Disco 2 TD5 MY 2001 - gone but still driven by another owner
Defender 110 TD5 driving me bananas with all faults
Disco 3 TDV 6 HSE MY 2005 gone @280.000 km
Disco 4 SDV 6 HSE MY 2012
8th Aug 2014 4:42 pm
rovervirus
Member Since: 31 Oct 2012
Location: behind the sun
Posts: 92
I did "change" the auto gearbox oil this weekend.
i opened the drainplug at the gearbox pan, 4,3 liters
of oil came out. i think, the difference of about half a liter
is not worth the work.
btw: i am using the ravenol 6HP gearbox oil since 25 tkm.
works fine.Engineering is the perfect partnership between physics and design
11th Aug 2014 5:59 am
CUCO
Member Since: 27 May 2011
Location: Spain & Oleee!!!
Posts: 609
Can I understand that you have changed the oil at 25.000 km?
How many km have your car now? No issues as you said?
As there is a bit of fear of changing the original ZF lifeguard 6 from ZF (or LR bottled) to another brand, many people (like me) want to know how an alternative fluid perform, as the spec of the original is dark for the blenders (afaik, shell, who blends ithe fluid for ZF, LR, BMW and all ZF 6hp users.., dont release the complete specs of the lifeguard, been an obscure secret, but maybe I have old news and now is open to the public and alternative blenders have the aproval of ZF or they just try to simulate the behaviour of the original fluid... Anyone knows?)
11th Aug 2014 8:58 am
mx468
Member Since: 12 Dec 2012
Location: Middletown, Rhode Island
Posts: 367
US V8 wheres the oil cooler hoses
I think my v8, 4.4 is set up differently here in the US than the diesels. Can anyone tell me which hose is the oil cooler lines in the diagram below. Thanks.
Narpy's Grill Mod, Suspension Rods, Ultra guage, wrangler Goodyear duratracs 265/60/18, new thermostat, diff oils changed, brake switch new, aluminum rack floor, LED driving lights in foglights, rear camera, just need gvif unit, next on list! New front arb bushings, new front valve block, 191,000 miles.
14th Aug 2014 3:04 pm
armybuck041
Member Since: 05 Dec 2009
Location: Canada
Posts: 30
On the back of the Radiator, its the rubber hose with the regular style hose clamp right next to the Coolant Reservoir.
Looses the clamp, pop off the hose. New fluid goes in the rubber line and old fluid comes out the metal spigot off of the cooler. From what I gather, this is the opposite of the Diesels.
Heres my narrative from another post:
Not sure if the cooler in the Petrol V8 is different TDV6, but I had no trouble adding 7 litres of Lifegard 6 through the upper cooler line using clear tubing and a funnel. All I had to do was occasionally squeeze the clear tubing to keep the fluid moving, but the whole flush took a little over 30min once all of the lines were connected and I figured out what line was what.
For those with the Petrol V8, the top spigot coming off of the fluid cooler is the outflow from the cooler back to the gearbox. I simply unplugged the rubber line and stuffed 3/8" clear tubing into it and tightened the clamp. This was where I added the new fluid via the funnel. I then attached clear tubing onto the spigot and ran it into a 5 litre container with a lid. No pics, but I cut a hole large enough for the clear tube to fit through the lid, passed the tube through and then put a cable tie around the tube so that the force of the fluid coming out didn't cause the tube to pop out and spray as mentioned by others. I screwed the lid down and then used the clear sight line on the jug to keep an eye on how full it was.
I ran the engine long enough to get 4.5 litres into the jug (15 seconds), then added 5 litres through the funnel. I ran the engine again to get an additional couple litres out of it, and then added the remaining 2 litres for a total of 9 litres. I then did the fluid levelling as per the Shop Manual using my IIDTool to monitor the fluid temps. If you overfill it a little bit when doing the flush, you can avoid having to add fluid during the levelling. I just waited until the fluid hit 31*c and crawled underneath and popped the check plug and let it drain until it was down to a thread coming out (approx 200ml).
I had originally drained 4 litres through the pan but could only add 2 litres back with through the fill plug before it started coming out the hole. Next time I do this, i'll drain the pan and then add fluid solely through the cooler line as adding through fill plug is a pain in the ass. I figure in a years time i'll do this again and it should only take an hour.2005 NAS SE Petrol V8
14th Aug 2014 10:04 pm
mx468
Member Since: 12 Dec 2012
Location: Middletown, Rhode Island
Posts: 367
Are these the pipes?
Are these the pipes circled?
Narpy's Grill Mod, Suspension Rods, Ultra guage, wrangler Goodyear duratracs 265/60/18, new thermostat, diff oils changed, brake switch new, aluminum rack floor, LED driving lights in foglights, rear camera, just need gvif unit, next on list! New front arb bushings, new front valve block, 191,000 miles.
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k i'm always late 
