Member Since: 21 Jan 2007
Location: Aberdeenshire
Posts: 196
Today I changed my front pads and discs, the instructions already listed were great, I have updated them with a little more info to change the front discs as well.
lr1 wrote:
Update of Gareth's & lr1 instructions
Tools required;
Good jack and stands, wheel brace, 13mm spanner, 15mm spanner 17mm spanner, Pliers, brake cleaner, brake grease, piston retraction tool, hammer, 21mm bi-hex socket, 50 Torx socket.
1. Securely jack the car onto axle stands and remove front wheels
2. On the left hand side, use pliers to pull the pad wear sensor off the pad
3. Remove the 13 mm bolts that hold the caliper to the caliper frame (use the 15mm spanner, rear, 17mm spanner front, to hold the sliding joints whilst you undo the caliper bolts)
4. Discard the caliper bolts (new ones are in the kit)
5. Lift off the caliper and using some strong string tie out the way, take care not to strain the brake pipe and wires.
6. Remove and discard the old pads. (Front and rear pads are different, Front has 2 piston system, rear has 1)
7. Using a 21mm Bi-hex socket and a very big wrench remove the two bolts holding on the calliper support frame, remove frame. You may heve to remove the brake hose bracket to gain access to the Bi-hex nut.
8. Using a 50 torx socket remove the grub screw that secures the disc, remove the disk (I had to use a hammer with a piece of wood to get the old disc off).
9. Install the new disc and tighten the grub screw to 35Nm (26 lb.ft)
10. Reinstall the calliper support frame and tighten to 275Nm (203 lb.ft) for the front (rear wheels to 115Nm (85 lb.ft) using some thread lock on the bolts
11. Remove and discard the pad support springs (new ones in kit)
12. Use piston compression tool (or a couple of G clamps) fully retract pistons into caliper - take care and push the pistons slowly and squarely. (use a small piece of wood cut to size to hold one of the two pistons in place, as one come out as you compress the other in).
13. Clean the caliper with brake cleaner.
14. Fit the new support springs to the caliper frame
15. Smear a little brake grease onto the back of each pad, and a little onto the sliding surface that fits into the support spring
16 Fit the pads into the support springs (rear pads are directional chamfer goes towards the ground, ie the leading edge of disk travel for forward motion)
17 Replace brake wear sensor, refit original or tie back if you feel you do not need it if its still intact.
18 Replace the caliper onto the frame and use the new bolts to secure 35Nm (26 lb.ft)
19 Refit road wheel and tighten nuts to 140Nm (103 lb.ft)
20 Pump brake pedal to prime the system.
21 Check level in brake fluid reservoir
22 Carefully road test
The pads are made by Ferodo and can probably be sourced from a brake specialist cheaper than LR, I will check this out the next time.
Make sure not to over tighten the brake caliper housing bolts (35Nm or 26 lb.ft), I sheared the head off the first one, luckily, enough of the thread was showing to get mole grips on to it.
Also good to have both front wheels off the ground at the same time as you keep having to point the wheels in different directions to gain access to the numerous bolts, especially the two big bi-hex bolts for the calliper support frame
Hope this helps.
14th Mar 2009 8:13 pm
philhunt
Member Since: 16 Sep 2007
Location: MI5 not 9 to 5
Posts: 1761
Did my front and rear pads yesterday following Gareth's instructions
I'm pretty hopeless with spanners but even I managed to do this job in a reasonable amount of time so don't be scared of doing the job yourself and save yourself a packet on stealer labour rates! To be honest, I was nervous about damaging the wear sensors (I had a set just in case) but persevered using my fingers only and eventually they came off intact.
My replacement front pads were Land Rover OEM parts (Ferodo) but the rear set were Mintex (non Land Rover OEM). The rear set came with replacement bolts but no support springs. Whilst the rear OEM pads may be directional ("12 Fit the pads into the support springs (rear pads are directional chamfer goes towards the ground, ie the leading edge of disk travel for forward motion")
the Mintex pads were not chamfered so not directionalClubs Mantec, Tasmods, LEDS, AT2s on 18s, Maxxis Bighorns on 17s, Remote FBH, BAS. ReMap, BSS., RLD Personalised SWP., Safari Snorkel, Faultmate, Three Musketeers & MUD
27th Apr 2009 11:30 pm
opodden
Member Since: 29 Jun 2006
Location: Elverum
Posts: 100
Cleaning calipers
I would recommend that you clean your calipers before you push the pistons back. In that way you can remove dirt on the pistons before you push these into the caliper body. In the long run, that will reduce friction between the piston and caliper. This will help the pistons retract correctly when you let off the brake, which will in turn give better pedal feel.
29th Nov 2009 11:03 am
countrywide
Member Since: 16 Sep 2007
Location: UK
Posts: 6019
The new rear pads I got from TLO are not directional, there is no chamfer (they are OEM). There is a odd self adhesive pad on the back of two of the pads though. From looking at the instructions, it seems these go on the opposite side of the caliper to the piston.
The OEM one's also don't have the support springs, but TLO always sends them as part of the brake kit.
Easy job as well.
29th Nov 2009 12:55 pm
tregie
Member Since: 27 Aug 2006
Location: south Africa
Posts: 6
Easy peasy
Both front wheels done in 40 minutes, some time spent on wiring loom on left front, but using instructions, easy and quick job, thanks
15th Dec 2009 7:30 am
Bodsy Site Sponsor
Member Since: 06 Nov 2006
Location: In the Clubhouse
Posts: 21361
lr1 wrote:
Update of Gareth's & lr1 instructions
Tools required;
Good jack and stands, wheel brace, 13mm spanner, 15mm spanner 17mm spanner, Pliers, brake cleaner, brake grease, piston retraction tool, hammer, 21mm bi-hex socket, 50 Torx socket.
7. Using a 21mm Bi-hex socket and a very big wrench remove the two bolts holding on the calliper support frame, remove frame. You may heve to remove the brake hose bracket to gain access to the Bi-hex nut.
Is it really a 21mm Bi-Hex Nut? Others seem to suggest it's a 17mm?
Just checking so I have all the bits I need to change the disks this time without having to have any last minute trips to the tool shop!
Have even bought a 300Nm Digital Torque wrench off e-blag as mine only went up to 250Nm...... Bodsys Brake Bible
Clock/ SNOTM /3Flash / 4x4Info /BT Update /Service Reset/Error Codes / Gearbox Reset See It Here
17th Feb 2010 1:10 pm
SN
Member Since: 03 Jan 2006
Location: Romiley
Posts: 13710
GS quoted me £200 for a front pad job today (despite it being clearly marked on the wall at £190) as they're 90% worn according to them.
I politely declined
I don't have a "piston retraction tool" (used to use a block of wood as I recall in times gone by) - if I get the pad kit from TLO - can I still do this on my own without one the aforementioned tool?Steve N | 21MY Defender | 08MY Discovery 3 (history) | 06MY Discovery 3 (ancient history)
11th Mar 2010 10:50 pm
blue meanie D3 Decade
Member Since: 04 Aug 2005
Location: Newbury
Posts: 6861
yes and theeeeennn......???
11th Mar 2010 10:52 pm
maxmax
Member Since: 02 Mar 2010
Location: Surrey
Posts: 181
Just popped the front wheels off to have a go and check what the T50 torx bit looked like and the 21mm bi hex socket. Correct, they looked like nothing I own once size was taken into account. A tour of Guildford later involving Halfords (space on shelf and label, out of stock), B&Q (wishful thinking), Screwfix (no), Unipart (yes, the T50 torx bit), a local shop (yes the T50, but no to the 21mm bi hex). I feel an internet order coming on and putting off the job until the weekend, which is at least forecast to be sunny!!! Lesson - don't expect to be able to buy the tools quickly in Guildford at least.D3 2.7 TDv6 HSE, 2005 in silver.
2009 nav disc (thanks Wiggs)
2007 software upgrade (thanks Wiggs and Geoff) with 3 flash indicators, follow me home reverse lights, fog with side lights & canadian driving lights
D4 bluetooth module (thanks Wiggs again)
8th Apr 2010 11:07 am
Bodsy Site Sponsor
Member Since: 06 Nov 2006
Location: In the Clubhouse
Posts: 21361
I got the 21mm bi hex socket from a more 'industrial' tool supplier on a local trading estate. The commercial outlets are unlikely to stock it. Check your yellow pages
T50 should be easy enough though
You only need those if your actually changing the disks as well as the pads thoiugh (just checking! )Bodsys Brake Bible
Clock/ SNOTM /3Flash / 4x4Info /BT Update /Service Reset/Error Codes / Gearbox Reset See It Here
8th Apr 2010 11:31 am
blue meanie D3 Decade
Member Since: 04 Aug 2005
Location: Newbury
Posts: 6861
I just used a 21mm Halfords professional socket from one of their sets I have. (and a big bar )and theeeeennn......???
8th Apr 2010 11:48 am
maxmax
Member Since: 02 Mar 2010
Location: Surrey
Posts: 181
thanks, yes doing the front discs. Twenty phone calls later and no one in or around Guildford had one. Two minutes on the internet and it is coming in the post tomorrow. still, left me time in the day for a nice coffee when I had planned to be in grease monkey modeD3 2.7 TDv6 HSE, 2005 in silver.
2009 nav disc (thanks Wiggs)
2007 software upgrade (thanks Wiggs and Geoff) with 3 flash indicators, follow me home reverse lights, fog with side lights & canadian driving lights
D4 bluetooth module (thanks Wiggs again)
I don't have a "piston retraction tool" (used to use a block of wood as I recall in times gone by) - if I get the pad kit from TLO - can I still do this on my own without one the aforementioned tool?
Fronts can be a , but if you remove the outer pad, then put the caliper back, you can then gemmy the twin pistons back.
PhilThe music business is a cruel and shallow money trench, a long plastic hallway where thieves and pimps run free, and good men die like dogs. There's also a negative side.
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