Wiggs - why does the EBP need two adjusters ? It may be the heat today but it seem a bit daft.
"I know that you believe that you understood what you think I said, but I am not sure you realize that what you read is not what I meant"
27th Jul 2008 6:07 pm
Bodsy Site Sponsor
Member Since: 06 Nov 2006
Location: In the Clubhouse
Posts: 21361
Are you on about the fact that there's an adjuster on each rear wheel? or that there's an adjuster and then a cam that needs to be loosened & then tightened back up?
Of course each rear wheel needs to have an adjuster (EPB works on rear only) as you have a set of drum brakes. The knurled adjuster does the biggest part of the adjustment in re-tensioning and the allen key adjusted cam, allows the top of the drum pad to re-adjust.
Ah, so the knurled adjusted spreads the shoes so to speak, and the cam moves the effective radius to keep both shoes on the same center as the drum/disc ?
"I know that you believe that you understood what you think I said, but I am not sure you realize that what you read is not what I meant"
27th Jul 2008 7:18 pm
10forcash
Member Since: 09 Jun 2005
Location: Ubique
Posts: 16534
Of course for those that don't want to change their own brake pads, sensors, discs and adjust the EPB, I can offer an on-site service cheaper than the dealer.... 8)
27th Jul 2008 7:26 pm
Bodsy Site Sponsor
Member Since: 06 Nov 2006
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Posts: 21361
@shinyMoose, yes, I'm pretty sure that's how it works.
Been using it a couplke of times today & no squeels at all. 8)
@10forcash still in mind for when I need work that I can't do myself Bodsys Brake Bible
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If anyone is interested, according to their web site, there's an article in September's Land Rover Enthusiast magazine on how to change a Discovery 3's brake pads and discs. Not seen it personally but as I need to change my rear pads soon, I think I'll go hunt down a copy and take a look!Now an ex-D3 owner after 7 happy years. Miss the car but not the big bills
12th Aug 2008 1:44 pm
simonsi
Member Since: 14 Oct 2007
Location: Auckland
Posts: 1264
10forcash wrote:
Of course for those that don't want to change their own brake pads, sensors, discs and adjust the EPB, I can offer an on-site service cheaper than the dealer.... 8)
Would you change the whole thing for something that works and doesn't fail? Perhaps re-using old Series/RR/D1/D2 components???
or do you mean just replace the standard badly designed components in a fundamentally flawed and unecessarily complicated design for new, equally badly designed components in the same fundamentally flawed and unecessarily complicated design??? Cheers
Simon
12th Aug 2008 1:58 pm
SN
Member Since: 03 Jan 2006
Location: Romiley
Posts: 13710
10forcash wrote:
Of course for those that don't want to change their own brake pads, sensors, discs and adjust the EPB, I can offer an on-site service cheaper than the dealer.... 8)
Fook - didn't spot that till now Iain - I've just thrown a load of ca$h at a dealer, sorry Steve N | 21MY Defender | 08MY Discovery 3 (history) | 06MY Discovery 3 (ancient history)
12th Aug 2008 2:19 pm
tlt
Member Since: 02 Sep 2006
Location: Austin, TX
Posts: 262
I replaced front and rear with these at 20k miles, rotors and pads. I have been happy with them. At 20k miles, the original front pads and rotors were shot and could not be turned according to the dealer. At 52k miles, I am replacing all pads (rear pads down to 3m) The rotors are still good. I would highly suggest them, and LR should put them on as stock.
18th Aug 2008 3:01 pm
azeg
Member Since: 27 Nov 2007
Location: Cologne
Posts: 26
Hi all,
wanted to change the pads and discs that weekend;
Pads seem to be very easy, but i stumbeled with changing the discs (front).
The caliper frame seems to be mounted with two TORX screws that seem to have size E25; but i cant get an E25 Nut.E 24 is definitvely to small.
So, is there a chance to change the discs without removing the caliper-frame ?
And is there perhaps a DIY or Howto to be found here ?
I tried the "search" but it responded 3500 results and i stopped reading after the first 500
Member Since: 06 Nov 2006
Location: In the Clubhouse
Posts: 21361
I don't think you'll be able to. There isn't enough clearence to get the disk out without removing the frame.
You should be able to get T25 socket from most car part stores. Although you may need to buy a set.Bodsys Brake Bible
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1st Sep 2008 10:20 am
azeg
Member Since: 27 Nov 2007
Location: Cologne
Posts: 26
Hi Bodsy,
thx for reply, most set (mine included) start at E6 and stop at E24.
Bigger than E24 seems to be very rare. I did even not find one in an online-shop.
THink that i have to have a look at my local tool-store, perhaps i will be lucky.
BTW.: does anybody know if i need an additional tool for changing the rear discs (which i am a bit worried about changing them without DIY) ?
Member Since: 06 Nov 2006
Location: In the Clubhouse
Posts: 21361
No additional tool needed (other than the same as the front), but you will need to re-set and adjust the EPB once you've changed the rears. e-mail me your address if yoiu want the EPB instructions.
You may want to change the EPB pads too whilst you're there (depends on how worn they are)Bodsys Brake Bible
Clock/ SNOTM /3Flash / 4x4Info /BT Update /Service Reset/Error Codes / Gearbox Reset See It Here
1st Sep 2008 11:46 am
dufftowndisco3
Member Since: 29 Sep 2008
Location: dufftown
Posts: 144
had my rear discs and pads done by the garage, then did the front pads myself, cheers for the advice guys
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